FACETASM held a show at the opening of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week TOKYO 2013 S/S.
The brand has suddenly become a hot topic in Tokyo's fashion scene, having designed the costumes for the music video for Namie Amuro's new song "Damage," in which she appeared as a secret guest at the ceremony. The brand's new collection will be on display at the pop-up shop "Fashion is..." on the 3rd floor of The Stage at Isetan Shinjuku from January 30th, alongside leading Tokyo fashion brands such as TOGA, Color, and ANREALAGE.
We spoke with designer Hiromichi Ochiai about Tokyo fashion and the future of the brand.
--Has your approach to creation changed after three seasons on the runway?

While continuing to hold shows has certainly raised my profile, I've also been exposed to a wide range of opinions, both positive and negative, and feel like an unstoppable battle has begun. I feel like I understand a little bit more about what Comme des Garçons' Kawakubo (Rei) means when she talks about "battle" in this world. I wonder if my predecessors, like UNDERCOVER, learned through similar experiences. I believe the only way to win this battle is to have more people see my collection and hear more diverse opinions. And I want to fight in a traditional way. I aim to be a brand that can fight on the main street while also doing underground things. That's why I hold shows.

--What is the theme of your 2013 Spring/Summer collection?

For the opening of Tokyo Fashion Week, I was conscious of the fact that a different demographic than usual would be in the audience, so I rolled out a red carpet and created a gorgeous display. The collection mixed classic and graffiti to express Facetasm's own unique elegance. The graffiti, including the hibiscus motif, was commissioned by Nezum, a graffiti artist active since the 1980s. Items featuring graffiti embroidery on lace are designs unique to FACETASM, and we pursue what's needed in Tokyo today. In our creations, we're always open to trying new things without setting any rules.

Now that our clothes are seen by so many people at shows, we feel even more strongly that we want young people to follow us. Previously, downsized men's clothing sold well in stores, but recently our collection line has been selling well. Seeing this trend, we feel we're on the right track.

Since holding the show, we've received more offers from factories. In Japan, there's a technical background capable of producing anything, from elaborately designed bags to high-quality denim. The factories are staffed by people who love clothes, and having worked at a textile company myself, I understand their passion. We want to grow together with the people who support us.
--Tokyo brands are often described as somewhere between fashion and street style.
If you're wondering if what Tokyo brands are doing is truly fashion, it feels a bit like street style, but I think that's fine. No matter what anyone says, it's something that can't be created in the West, and that's Tokyo's style today. I think that by continuing to create it, one day it will become a uniquely Tokyo fashion style that isn't just a copy of fashion.
--Are you conscious of overseas markets?
White Mountaineering (designed by Yosuke Aizawa, who is the same age as me) recently held a show at Pitti (the world's largest menswear trade fair). Nearly one-third of FACETASM's sales now come from overseas. If I'm invited by IT (a select shop) to go to Hong Kong, I'll be interviewed by six or seven media outlets. I think it's time for us to go out into the world more and produce results.
--What are FACETASM's goals for the future?
It's been six years since our debut, but the four staff members have remained the same. Ever since then, I've wanted to create clothes that resonate with people's hearts. It's deeply moving that an independent brand like ours has been able to open Tokyo Fashion Week and line up in shops alongside brands I admire, and I want to continue to remain independent. 2012 was a long year, starting with our participation in Pitti in January, but it was also a year in which something started to move. This year, we have a show planned at VERSUS TOKYO, which will be the final show of Tokyo Fashion Week, and I want to continue creating and doing business that is worthy of that.