Kenta Matsushige's 2016-2017 Autumn/Winter collection fully demonstrates not only his passion for craftsmanship, but also his technical prowess.

The collection is modern and structured, yet not overly fashionable, exuding a pure desire to wear. Its unpretentious modesty seems to represent Japanese culture and exudes a chic French attitude.

Four years after moving to France, Matsushige launched his brand and his work in Paris appears to be going smoothly, but he admits that he was "confused in the second and third seasons." This was the first time he had faced the pain of birth as a designer. Having overcome this difficult hurdle, the theme of this collection is "Japan." He says it was only after crossing the ocean that he was able to appreciate the appeal of Japanese culture. Now that he has solidified the foundation of his brand, what new frontiers is he aiming for?

--What made you decide on "Japan" as the theme for this season?

In the second and third seasons, he was so focused on modernity that he was unable to express what he wanted to express, and the collection was released without any satisfaction. I was sponsored by Chanel, rented an atelier, and had its affiliated brands produce accessories for me, but I was lost and confused between wearable and creative. It was in this state that I decided to travel alone to Japan before starting work on this fourth season. Having traveled abroad once allowed me to focus on the unconscious things that exist within Japan, and it was inspiring.

--What specifically inspired you?

Ukiyo-e prints from the Edo period. I was particularly moved by ukiyo-e artists Utagawa Toyokuni's "Oatsurae Sanshoku Benkei" and Utagawa Kunisada's "Tsuki no Yoru Ninen Au Yoru." It's hard to believe that such vibrant colors and pure light could be depicted some 200 years ago, and when I first saw them, I thought they'd been repainted. Also, inspired by the innovative square sleeve design of the kimono used in Ichikawa Danjūrō's play "Shibaraku," I created sleeves that were formed while the arms were slightly bent. It was also a challenge for me to see if I could create a three-dimensional representation of a two-dimensional ukiyo-e print. It was a constant process of trial and error, but I'm pleased with the level of completion of this season's collection.

I was also struck by the worldview of "rustic beauty" espoused by Taneya, a long-established confectionery shop in Shiga Prefecture. It's an attitude that values what has been passed down through the ages while being sensitive to changes in lifestyles and the times, while at the same time approaching a new era. I feel that by coming into contact with Japanese culture, I have been able to establish an identity that will serve as the foundation of the brand.



--What kind of woman does Kenta Matsushige envision?

My brand deliberately doesn't have a set image of a woman, but rather is "each individual in their own way." There are many words that describe the brand, such as neat, simple, and chic, but I will continue to create items that can be transformed depending on how they are combined. I don't like overbearing designs that make it obvious which brand it is at a glance, and I prefer designs that make people ask, "Where's that from?"

--As a designer, please tell us about your future plans.

This may sound abstract, but I would like to expand the brand. I will always have challenges and be inspired, and create as I feel. In Paris, where there are so many excellent designers, it is wonderful to have a brand like Sacai that can hold its own against the big fashion houses. With new designers being born one after another, it sometimes feels like there will no longer be any new, original designs, but in my own way, I would like to refine it into a one-of-a-kind brand that does not yet exist.

Return to Part 1.