Matsuno Hiroshi is the owner of Matsunoya, a hardware wholesaler located in the wholesale district of Bakuro-cho, Tokyo. Matsunoya's hardware and general merchandise is hugely popular not only in Japan but also in stylish select shops in New York, Paris and Taiwan.

Matsuno, an expert on hardware and general merchandise, loves people, loves towns and loves to chat, and he shows us around his familiar neighborhoods of Asakusa and Bakuro-cho. Feeling lonely walking around alone, he takes his long-time friend and stylist Masako Ito as his companion in this two-part series on a leisurely tour of East Tokyo.

■ A visit to Nakasei, a long-established tempura restaurant beloved by foodies in Asakusa

During the Edo period, Asakusa was home to theaters, brothels, and other entertainment districts, and was a symbol of Edo culture. Just like the Edo residents who enjoyed pilgrimages to Asakusa morning and evening, the area is still bustling with tourists year-round, with Sensoji Temple, which holds markets and festivals every calendar year, Sarugaku-cho, where kabuki performances begin at six in the morning, and Yoshiwara, a paradise just beyond the Daimon gate. In this area, brimming with Edo atmosphere, lies Nakasei, a long-established tempura restaurant that has been in business for six generations. Beloved by authors such as Nagai Kafu and Ikenami Shotaro, Nakasei is a restaurant that Matsuno visits on special occasions. The two begin their conversation over Edo-style tempura.



Nakaisei is a tempura restaurant founded in 1870 (Meiji 3). The founder, a samurai from Suruga, opened a food stall in Hirokoji, Asakusa, during the late Edo period. When the restaurant was built, it was named after his son (second-generation owner), Nakagawa Seigoro.

Matsuno Hiroshi (hereafter, M): I have many memories of Asakusa, from pilgrimages to Sensoji Temple with my grandparents to dates at Hanayashiki and Meigaza theaters in junior high. Even now, whenever I go out to eat with someone, it's in Asakusa. What image do you have of Asakusa, Masako?

Masako Ito (hereinafter, I):
In Tokyo, it seems like everywhere you go you see the same kind of stores, and the city is starting to feel a bit bland. But in Asakusa, I feel like there are many long-established businesses that have been in business for generations, as well as privately run businesses with their own unique personalities and charming people.

M: Asakusa has been the birthplace of performing arts culture since the Edo period. With the presence of the vaudeville theater, the Meigaza theater, and the France-za strip club, it naturally attracted interesting people like rakugo storytellers, writers, and TV personalities, and it was a cultural spot in Tokyo. That atmosphere still permeates the area today. Also, many people may think of it as a tourist destination, but there are many good stores that are rooted in the local community.




I: Nakakiyo's appetizers and tempura are all exquisite and delicious. I expected a rich flavor with sesame oil, but they're light and refreshing. Apparently the salt used for the tempura comes from Suruga, the founder's hometown. What kind of restaurant is this to you, Mr. Matsuno?
M: It's a special place for family events and welcoming important guests. The private rooms in the annex are relaxing, and the carp in the garden are lovely. They come over when the proprietress calls their name (laughs). I visit special restaurants a few times a year, usually at a kamameshi restaurant or Yoshikami Western Restaurant. Also, Kamiya Bar is, to me, a family restaurant in the best sense of the word. I often took my kids to the second floor, which is especially fun for people of all ages, from children to the elderly. Asakusa is a town that can be enjoyed by people of all ages.

I: I also like the Western restaurant Yoshikami. There's also the coffee shop Angelus and Pelican, which is famous for its bread! All of these shops have been loved for a long time and are always bustling with all kinds of people. Kamameshi Mutsumi, which Matsuno-san recommended to me, was also good.

M: From everyday shops to special occasion shops, Asakusa has a wide range of options, which is great (laughs). Now, let's say goodbye to the carp in the pond and head to the next town.



[Store Information]
Nakasei
1-39-13 Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo
03 (3841) 4015
Hours: Monday-Friday 11:30 AM - 2:00 PM, 5:00 PM - 10:00 PM
Saturdays, Sundays, and Holidays 11:00 AM - 8:00 PM
Closed: Tuesdays and the 2nd and 4th Mondays of the month
http://nakasei.biz/
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■ Wandering around unique shops, both old and new, in his hometown of Bakuro-cho

We head to Matsuno's hometown of Bakuro-cho, where he works and lives. Bakuro-cho is known as a wholesale district, but after the collapse of the bubble economy, many companies closed down, and the buildings and warehouses were left abandoned for a long time. Renovation of the area then began, and young artisans and creators, attracted by the sturdy buildings and spacious warehouses, began to gather there. Around 10 years ago, they began setting up workshops and offices in Bakuro-cho. Today, the area is bustling with unique shops, including a gallery showcasing handmade works, a cafe hosting a variety of events, a restaurant that makes you feel like you're overseas, and a stylish button shop. We strolled around to a coffee shop that Matsuno has been frequenting for a long time, as well as new galleries and restaurants that have become familiar faces.

■ A coffee shop that Matsuno has been frequenting for many years. Enjoy your usual cup of coffee at the counter

Rakuda is a specialty coffee shop located on the outskirts of the wholesale district in Bakuro-cho. The shop was opened in 1978 by owner Moriguchi Motoo. Matsuno's favorite is the Rakuda Blend, which has been created through extensive research and ingenuity into everything from bean selection, roasting, blending, and brewing methods to a taste that you'll want to drink every day. Moriguchi laughs and says that this is the most time-consuming and cheapest item on the menu. Matsuno's son Kenichi, who helps out in the shop, brings us Matsuno's usual menu item (Rakuda Coffee & Cinnamon Toast).




M: After lunch, I always have Rakuda. I've been doing this for over 10 years. Even though it's such a small shop, they roast the coffee here too. Do you like coffee, Masako?

I: Yes, I do. Depending on the day, I drink it black, or with milk. I always have one cup a day. "Rakuda Blend" is delicious. It's nice to have a place like this so close by.

M: You should also try the cinnamon toast. It's made with butter, sugar, cinnamon, and fresh cream, so it's bound to be delicious (laughs). By the way, Mr. Ito, you've published many books about walking around town, so you've probably seen a lot of different cities. What kind of cities and places do you like?



I: As a stylist, I often travel by car, so when I walk, I enjoy discovering little side streets and shops I'd never noticed before. I'm good at finding nice places (laughs), so I don't really have any favorite cities or dislikes. That said, I don't often go to the glitzy parts of Tokyo (laughs).

M: I don't go to the west side of Tokyo much either. How do you find new places?

I: I like checking out new places, but I'm the type who keeps going back to places I think are good. So when I find a new place, I refer to information from friends who have similar tastes and sense of fashion.

M: If something looks good, I just go in. That's why I often make terrible mistakes. But when it comes to finding a place, it's all about trying new things (laughs). I've been to a lot of places that I can't mention here.



[Store Information]
Rakuda
2-2-15 Higashi-Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
03 (3864) 4938
Hours: 7:30 AM - 7:00 PM
Closed: Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays


Is Bakurocho Brooklyn? From a gallery renovated from a warehouse to a restaurant where you can also hold live performances. Hiroshi Matsuno and Masako Ito's leisurely stroll around the city -- Part 2 [East Tokyo Time Travel vol.2] can be found here.

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