"For better or worse, I think we live in a 'lighter' era," began Fumihito Ganryu, designer of GANRYU, the men's brand of Comme des Garçons. GANRYU, which launched in 2008, experienced its first major stage appearance at Tokyo Fashion Week in March of this year. At the recent Comme des Garçons exhibition, the brand showcased its SS14 collection on the floor. He continued to appear at the exhibition after the show, and we spoke to him about his latest collection and outlook. The SS14 floor show featured elaborate hair and makeup, and for the first time, background music was played. Perhaps Tokyo Fashion Week influenced this? "Fashion week was such a valuable experience that it made me want to try something new (laughs). I asked Kawakubo about it, and she was like, 'Why haven't you done this before?' So we played music for the first time. I hope to continue experimenting freely in the future." The theme for SS14 was "Surf the balance." The design expresses the aforementioned "lightness." "When I was thinking of a light word, I used the word 'surf the balance.' It's not about riding the waves, but rather surfing in a sensory sense. I chose a word that is commonly used overseas, where surfing means letting go, which is a light meaning. Especially now, I feel like I don't want to wear heavy clothes, so I wanted to reflect that in the theme."

As mentioned above, the '14 Spring/Summer' collection presented details such as mixed materials and patchwork with a relaxed atmosphere. A variety of prints were used, but the print that looks like crocodile leather at first glance is actually shark leather.

"I love sharks. I've loved them since I was a child. Shark leather is very hard, like a tire, so it can't be used for clothing. At best, it's only used for small items like wallets. I tried to express that hardness by transfer printing it onto a soft cut-and-sew material, creating a texture that is impossible to achieve in reality. Japanese printing technology, which makes this possible, is amazing."

The shark leather print is not only transferred onto cut-and-sew materials, but also onto synthetic materials, and is used on bags and, making its first appearance, tie pants. "I've wanted to make this for a few years, but the timing just never felt right. The time when it will hit store shelves next spring/summer, a year from now, is when I think it'll be worn, and that was the perfect timing for me." Ganryu is known for many items that play around with the silhouette of their bottoms, such as sarouel pants. Sarouel pants will, of course, be featured again next season. Ever since his student days, he's loved playful bottom silhouettes. "I really love the shape and silhouette of sarouel pants and the like. When I was skateboarding, I liked to wear my bottoms dropped. But I'd balance it out by pairing them with more structured tailored tops. For example, I might pair a Supreme top with Margiela bottoms. I always want to find a neutral balance that's right for me, with no added or subtracted effects. I feel like I become physically and mentally unstable if I'm not balanced." This sense of balance is evident in his creations, which is likely why he creates a variety of mixed styles. Next season, he'll be introducing military and Spencer jackets, tailored collars and sports blousons. He also used a technique that used gradient colors. "I'm always thinking about what impossible combinations would work well together. How can I create a combination that makes sense by using opposite elements? For SS14, I proposed combining neutral colors like yellow and red, or green and blue. In fact, this is an ethnic color relationship. It's ethnic in the sense that it connects neutral elements in terms of shape or ideology. I'm trying to be ethnic in concept. I've unified the collection by combining neutral elements overall." Ganryu is considered the most unique brand within Comme des Garçons. Is it headed to the very edge of fashion? Or a stronghold of street fashion? "I'm sometimes categorized in the context of street fashion, but I don't think that way. But I don't want to impose my ideas on others. Fashion is about freedom. If it wasn't free, it would become a uniform," he said, continuing below.

"To tell the truth, every time I make a presentation, I can't accept it and think, 'this isn't it.' Of course, I have cleared the minimum boundaries for myself, of wanting to wear it myself and selling it as a product, but the truth is, I am aiming for something much, much different. It is a direction that does not exist not only in Comme des Garçons, but in the world as a whole. I have a vision that does not exist at a fundamental level, and because of that, I am able to create products that can become widely popular. I believe I am the kind of person who creates products with that stance in mind. I want to create products that are universal, and that can be used all over the world. It is a bland thing to put into words, so when I reach that point, I will publicly declare, 'This is what I wanted to do.' If it were something that someone else had already done, I could aim to do it, but since it is something that no one has done, I have no choice but to find it myself. When it comes to creating products, in parallel with my fundamental vision, I want to continue challenging myself, aiming to create products that I am drawn to personally and that everyone will also think is good."

That spirit appears to be that of "Comme des Garçons."