NYLON, an American fashion magazine, was founded in 1998 by Marvin Scott Jarrett, Mike Neumann, and Helena Christensen, one of the supermodels of the early 1990s. Western countries offer a breeding ground for independent fashion magazines that have established themselves as respected by fashion insiders. Stephen Gan, publisher of the New York-based visual magazines Visionaire and V Magazine, which combine fashion and art, not only manages his own company but also serves as creative director of Harper's Bazaar US, leveraging the strengths of indie magazines in major publications. The quantity and quality of in-depth, niche information not found in major publications is also a key strength of indie magazines. We spoke to Takanori Togawa, CEO of Caelum Publishing, the Japanese publisher of NYLON, a magazine beloved by girls in the TV drama "Gossip Girl," and editor-in-chief of Nylon Japan, about the origins of the magazine. He then explained that he needed to start by talking about the Japanese edition of DAZED & CONFUSED, which launched a year before Nylon Japan.
Dazed is a London-based fashion and culture magazine that was first published in 1991. Created by photographer Rankin and editor Jefferson Hack, the slender Jefferson is a striking presence at fashion shows and a regular front-row spot on Style.com. The magazine is also famous for attracting Kate Moss and Alexander McQueen, who were inspired by their approach to creating the magazine.
After graduating from university, Togawa worked for a publishing company, but decided to start his own business, so he left to learn management at a publishing company run by a senior colleague. However, he lacked the industry connections and recognition to publish a fashion magazine, and concluded that starting out as an internationally licensed magazine would be more effective in terms of sales, advertising, and company management. Perhaps because he's the type to act quickly when he has an idea, in 2001, before founding Caelum, he went to London and knocked on the door of Dazed. "I didn't know anyone there, but Rankin and Jefferson listened intently to what I had to say, and we signed a contract. I went to the editorial office every day to understand Dazed, and I stayed in London for three weeks," Togawa says.
He witnessed firsthand how overseas fashion magazines are used as promotional materials for new photographers, stylists, hair and makeup artists, and models. Once they make a name for themselves, advertising work leads to financial stability. Aspiring freelancers typically receive no pay beyond the cost of creating pages. Magazine publishers expect high-quality visuals at low cost, and luxury brands cooperate by lending expensive dresses. Seeing how even newcomers can achieve instant success if they are creative and produce high-quality work, Togawa developed his plans for a Japanese publication.
Knowing that it would take time for Dazed to take root in Japanese culture, Togawa called the NYLON editorial office in New York while he was still in London.
He said, "I'm planning to go to Tokyo soon (to attend the United Arrows Jewel Changes party), so let's meet there." When he met then-editor-in-chief Marvin, they hit it off, and a year later, a contract with NYLON was signed. Thus, Dazed was launched in March 2002 (it ceased publication with the October 2010 issue), and Nylon Japan was launched in April 2004.
2/11 --Continued by Nylon Japan, which becomes a streetwear magazine.
