Fashion was the main focus of the "NIPPONISTA" pop-up store, held in New York from February 6th to 13th. Kansai Yamamoto, representing Japan at this event, interviewed the creators of young Tokyo designers about their work. An impromptu meeting was held at the Nipponista venue with the female buyers who planned the project to discuss their impressions of "Japanese design" and "Cool Japan" through the event.
"My honest impression when I saw the work of the participating Japanese brands and designers this time was that I was extremely surprised and inspired. I wondered how far Japanese design has evolved, and how these young designers are creating products with such excellence and sincerity. I feel that the problem is that the public is not aware of this kind of thing, and that this is a public relations issue. I was once again energized by each exhibitor," said Kansai.
Last year, Kansai held his first show in 42 years in London, marking a full-fledged return to fashion design after focusing on event production. Kansai, who held a pop-up event at Isetan Shinjuku in January this year, visited Nipponista and carefully interviewed the designers of each participating brand to learn about the craftsmanship behind their creations. "The fact that the sizes change doesn't matter if it's for men or women. It's amazing because it transcends gender," he commented after listening to a lecture from ANREALAGE designer Kunihiko Morinaga on how the size of the 14SS collection's dial changes when you turn it. He marveled at the idea of using photochromic dyes, whose molecular structure changes color in response to sunlight, saying, "It's like something out of a lab." As Tamae Hirokawa of SOMARTA explained her collection archives using a tablet, Kansai commented, "Your use of materials would even put Paco Rabanne to shame. Hollywood actresses would want your bodywear. You're a very original designer." While praising FACETASM's first New York presentation, which deliberately featured only black and white women's items, as "a very delicate idea," he commented, picking up a sukajan-embroidered gown that designer Hiromichi Ochiai was holding at the venue. He seemed interested in the men's items, including the designer's leather jacket. When Ochiai replied, "This time, we're only exhibiting women's items," he countered, "Are men's and women's items really that different for you?" He also seemed impressed by the blue coat worn by Nao Yagi of mintdesigns. "Designers look best in their own brand's clothes. (Mintdesigns) has an interesting focus on textiles, but I would have preferred a goldfish print on the lining, but they go for a light brown," confirming the difference between his own design perspective and that of current designers. He posed some touchy questions about the roles he and the other designer, Hokuto Katsui, and Kansai seems to be interested in the roles each of these designer duos plays, which have been on the rise in recent years.
"It's completely different now than it was 40 years ago when I set out overseas. In our time, there were no arguments! We didn't care if we were met with resistance, and we didn't listen to what others had to say, but these designers today are humble and silently pursue their own world. I'm amazed at the level they're at," Kansai says, wide-eyed.
