With 16 directly operated stores in the UK and five in Japan, PRETTY GREEN is expanding its fan base. In January, the brand will hold its third private show at London Men's Fashion Week, followed by its first appearance at Pitti Uomo. From its image as the brand of former Oasis member Liam Gallagher, PRETTY GREEN has rapidly grown into a global brand in the men's market.

Pat Salter, who has been designing the brand's denim line for the past three years and has been responsible for the overall design since the 2014 Spring/Summer season, has gained experience in the British fashion industry. He honed his skills as a pattern cutter and gained 13 years of experience as a garment technologist at Ted Baker, where he also has a deep knowledge of textiles. His artisanal style shines through in his speech, setting him apart from the young fashion creators who tend to pursue genderless fashion, often coming from art school backgrounds. We caught up with the "Brit" designer, recognized by Liam, during his visit to Japan.


--Once you start talking about clothes with Liam, it never ends?

Yes, we're both really into clothes. It's well known that Liam buys a lot of clothes in Japan, but we both love shopping and can't stop thinking about things like which vintage military stitching is from which era, or which pocket was designed in which period. We also both love Japanese men's brands. You can tell they love everything about them, with the incredible attention to detail and precision in the handwork. Their passion for clothing is contagious. Since launching in Japan, we've been fully promoting Japanese production, especially from Autumn/Winter 2014. We sold some items exclusively in our UK direct stores, and the high quality was very well received. We want to continue to actively incorporate Japanese production in the future.

--What do you think of the way Japanese people dress?

I think it's really cool. It's amazing how all kinds of styles are accepted in Japan. The way they mix and match is cool. The other day, I was surprised to see a man walking around Shinjuku wearing cowboy boots and shorts. It's a sight you'd never see in other cities. But when I see it in Tokyo, I think it's okay. London is quite conservative when it comes to colors and fashion.

--What are your favorite Japanese brands?

White Mountaineering, Visvim, Engineered Garments, Omnigod, and so many more. The "washed casual" style proposed by Japanese brands is very similar to the men's style I like. But of course, I also like British brands like Paul Smith, Alexander McQueen, Christopher Bailey, and Burberry.

--When did you decide to become a designer?

I don't remember exactly, but my mother said she always wanted to be a designer. However, it wasn't until I started working as a designer that I realized I loved the job of a pattern cutter. When I started working, I started going out at night to clubs and other places, and I loved cutting fabric and making my own shirts. At the time, I listened to more house music than Oasis.
--Three seasons have passed since you took over the overall design of the brand. Have you personally aimed for any major changes to the brand?
We weren't aiming for any major changes, but I believe Pretty Green must always be evolving. The brand is now in its sixth year, and we've started releasing separate lines: a casual label and a black label, which is presented at shows. Liam Gallagher was the brand's founder and still checks every item, so he has an inseparable relationship with the brand, but I think the brand itself needs to grow to the point where people who come to Pretty Green stores will recognize that Liam is involved in their products.
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--Do you and Liam decide the theme for each season together?
Liam and I decide the brand's theme for each season together. Once the theme is decided, I gather a huge amount of information, discuss it in detail with him, and then incorporate it into the products. The theme of the Spring/Summer 2015 collection was "The Production," and the Gibson Guitar Studio where the show was held was a real recording studio on Abbey Road. EMI studios were also located nearby, and studio workers at the time all wore white cuffed shirts and three-piece suits. In the early 1960s, musicians were naturally fashionable, but producers and studio workers wore lab coats or strict London-style suits. With the emergence of the Beatles, the Rolling Stones, Pink Floyd, the Kinks, and the Who, the style of studio workers changed in the late 1960s. Producers like Phil Spector, George Martin, and Brian Wilson transformed the very essence of music "production" in the studio. This season's Pretty Green collection was based on the historical context of studios and the changing fashions of backstage staff at the time.

--What specific details express this theme?

Rather than focusing on the era when The Beatles first appeared, we were interested in the period a little later. We were particularly surprised to learn that Pink Floyd recorded "The Dark Side of the Moon" in this studio. The fabric used in this collection features an original print by Storm Thorgerson, who designed the Pink Floyd jacket, still at Liberty, and we used that archive fabric for this collection. We also added a shirt inspired by the flying pig from "Animals." The suit features period details such as pocket flaps, lapels, and stitching for a mod feel. We've also released items inspired by vintage leather parkas that Liam owns.

--Is there a chance that Pretty Green will release a style like the shorts and cowboy boots that surprised you when you saw it in Tokyo?

If Liam wants to wear it (laughs). However, while Pretty Green will not change its core British brand identity, we want to cherish the styles that London has brought to the world, such as the iconic rock styles of the Beatles, the Stones, and the Kinks, as well as new cultures like mods and punks. In that sense, we hope to be able to successfully incorporate and promote cutting-edge mixed cultures like those in Tokyo.