Enjoy papaya juice in the tropical country of Taiwan! Wandering around Tainan's retro streets and renovated architecture [Wandering around Taiwan vol.5]

May 6, 2017
From Taipei, I took the Taiwan High Speed Rail (SHKS), also known as the Shinkansen, southbound, arriving at Tainan Station in just under two hours. From there, I transferred to the Taiwan Railway and headed to Tainan Station. Tainan, a city close to the sun, is intensely sunny and quite hot. Although I visited in March, it felt like I'd traveled between seasons, from spring in Taipei to summer in Tainan. I changed from my long-sleeved shirt to a T-shirt and strolled around Tainan.

Tainan, with its laid-back tropical atmosphere

Since I arrived in the morning, I headed for Tainan's specialty, beef soup. I went to A-cun Beef Soup (A-cun Beef Soup) near Tainan's Yongle Market. The beef soup is made with thinly sliced raw beef in a piping hot broth. The rare beef, served with chopped ginger and a sweet sauce, is light and easy to eat. Locals seem to eat it with white rice. As it's a local specialty, there are many famous beef soup restaurants, so it might be fun to try different flavors.

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Light and easy to eat beef soup


After satisfying my hunger, I headed to Lin Baifo, a renovated Japanese department store built during the Japanese colonial period. The photogenic building exudes a modern feel, and the interior is a truly beautiful space with its old-fashioned elevator doors, round windows, and curved staircase. It's now a select shop selling MIT (Made in Taiwan) Chinese tea, sweets, clothing, and miscellaneous goods.

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Hayashi Department Store, which reopened in 2013


Tainan is known for its fascinating, aged streets and alleyways. We head to Shennong Street, also known as the old town. This area features cafes and general stores along its traditional streetscape. The illuminated streets of Shennong Street are magically beautiful, and we recommend strolling here both during the day and at night. We continue walking to Xinyi Street, another old streetscape. Here, stylish cafes and restaurants are scattered throughout the alleys. The remains of the old city wall, Duiyue Gate, remain, and the view of the cityscape from there is very atmospheric and beautiful. There is a large tree and a small bench near the gate, so it's a great place to take a short break.

Take a break with papaya milk, winter melon tea, and delicious coffee

Tainan has many attractions, including famous historical sites, retro architecture, and old townscapes. It's easy to walk endlessly, but the strong sun and heat make it a good idea to take frequent breaks. In the Taipei edition, we introduced fruit juice, and it's especially fitting to take a break with a fruit juice in Tainan, which is close to fruit-producing regions. "Ah Tian Shui Guo" on Minsheng Road is a slightly stylish fruit and juice shop. The specialty "papaya milk" was a hit, with its gentle papaya sweetness.

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A specialty of "A Tian Fruit Shop." Gentle, sweet papaya milk.


Also, "Yi Fong Achuan Winter Melon Tea," located near the popular tourist spot Chihkan Tower, is a renowned shop for winter melon tea, made by simmering winter melon with sugar. Winter melon is said to be high in potassium, making it good for summer fatigue. It's the perfect drink for Tainan, but it has a slightly bitter taste. I tried the plain winter melon tea, but the winter melon lemon tea, which contains lemon juice, is said to be refreshing and easy to drink.

Tainan is a city with many stylish cafes and delicious coffee shops. Located in an alley on Zhengxing Street, Zhengxing Kafei Hall is a renovated old building where you can enjoy coffee and desserts in a stylish space. The small coffee stand, A Cup of Confidence, brews coffee using a siphon. Even though it's a food stall-like establishment, I had a delicious cup of coffee. Coffee culture is firmly rooted here.


Don't forget to try the local specialty, "Yi Mian"

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I was impressed by the authentic Yi Mian!


Tainan is the birthplace of my beloved "yi mian" (meaning "yi noodles") (see Vol. 1). I headed to a restaurant recommended by a friend who knows Tainan well. I went to the crowded local eatery "Minsheng Lu Wuming Yi Mian" (meaning "Minsheng Lu Wuming Yi Mian"). I enjoyed the simple, slightly spicy noodles topped with thinly sliced pork slices and chili oil. The broth and the pork were just the right amount. I finished the meal in no time, but still not quite satisfied, so I headed to the next stop. "Fu Rong Xiao Qidian" (meaning "Fu Rong Xiao Qidian") in the West Market offers noodles topped with thinly sliced pork slices and shredded pork simmered in a sweet and spicy sauce, creating a unique and delicious experience. I've been raving about yi mian, but like monjayaki and takoyaki, they're actually a local delicacy. Don't get your hopes up too much! (lol)

Tainan was Taiwan's first capital. There are many famous historical sites, including famous temples and palaces, the ancient ruins of Anping, and buildings from the Japanese colonial era. Enjoy these along with a stroll around local food.


>>【Vol.1】 Eat your way through Taipei's local foods, from breakfast to Xiaolongbao and sweets
>>【Vol.2】 Wander around Taipei's morning markets. "Dried noodles" are a must-buy when you visit Taiwan and are a recommended souvenir.
>>[Vol.3] Wandering around cafes and hardware stores in Taipei's wholesale district. Be specific about your ideal type when asking the god of love fulfillment!
>>[vol.4] 30 minutes by subway from Taipei Station to a hot spring day trip and a walk around a seaside book cafe />Lin Department Store, Sec. 2, Zhongyi Rd., Tainan City, Sec. 63
Ada Suiguo, Sec. 1, Minsheng Rd., Zhongxi District, Tainan City; Sec. 168; Yifeng Agawa Winter Melon Tea; />Fukuei Small Store No. 25, Lane 16, Sec. 3, Guohua Street, Tainan City (Inside the West Market)
Zhengxing Kafei Hall No. 41 Bao'an Road, West Central District, Tainan City
Full of Confidence No. 107, Sec. 3, Jinhua Road, Tainan City
*The published data is from March 2017. Please check for details.


Interview and photography by Mori Yukiko
Her book "Edo Everyday Items" (Heibonsha), which connects the Edo period and the present day through tools, was published in Taiwan in May 2016 as "Edo Everyday Items" (Nichigetsu Bunka Publishing). After the book was released, she became completely immersed in Taiwan during her first visit, and has since visited the country frequently. Her Taiwan fever has revived her once-failed desire to learn Chinese, and this spring she even studied abroad at a university in Taipei for a short period.
森有貴子
  • To Tainan, where the laid-back atmosphere of the tropics lingers
  • Transfer from the Shinkansen to the Taiwan Railway to Tainan Station
  • The retro Taiwan Railway Tainan Station
  • A light and easy-to-eat beef soup
  • Hayashi Department Store, which reopened after renovation in 2013
  • The beauty of the illuminated Hayashi Department Store
  • A specialty of Atada Fruit Shop: gently sweet papaya milk
  • A specialty of Atada Fruit Shop: gently sweet papaya milk
  • A shop selling winter melon tea that's effective against summer fatigue
  • A shop selling winter melon tea that's effective against summer fatigue
  • I was impressed by the authentic noodles!
  • The always bustling Minsheng Road Wumingyi Noodles
  • Anping Old Fort was a military fortress during the Dutch colonial period, when Tainan was the capital of Taiwan.
  • Duyuemen Gate, the remains of the city wall on Xinyi Street
  • Xinyi Street with its stylish cafes
  • "Zhengxing Kafei Hall" also operates stylish guesthouses (Minsu)
  • Siphon-brewed coffee is popular "A cup of confidence"
  • Anping Old Street's tofu pudding is easy to eat
  • Long lines at the Taiwanese crepe shop "Kinde Chun-maki"
  • To Tainan, where the laid-back atmosphere of the tropics lingers
  • To Tainan, where the laid-back atmosphere of the tropics lingers
  • To Tainan, where the laid-back atmosphere of the tropics lingers
  • To Tainan, where the laid-back atmosphere of the tropics lingers
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