Political turmoil, the shadow of war, and increasing terrorism and violence. Surrounded by news threatening the maintenance of peace and security, what role should fashion play in times like these, when anxiety cannot be shaken?

In response to a question harbored by many in the industry, designer Atsushi Nakajima wrote the following in his SS17 collection notes: "For me, fashion is a means of combining tradition and modernity. It connects different cultures and people."

Atsushi Nakajima possesses a modern yet classic atmosphere, blending Japanese delicacy with European boldness, and competes with unparalleled ideas.

He was the first Japanese designer to win the DHL Exported Project and made his Milan Collection debut in the AW16-17 collection. His second SS17 show, set inside a royal palace built around the 16th century, celebrated 150 years of diplomatic relations between Japan and Italy and drew thunderous applause with its surprising production. Originally a royal palace, this building was later the headquarters of the Milanese government and is now used as an exhibition space and museum. A young designer born and raised in the remote island nation of Japan held a fashion show here. Giving a foreigner an opportunity was undoubtedly a challenging endeavor, not only for Nakajima but also for Milan itself. The lack of Japanese designers in Milan compared to other major cities like Paris and London is likely due to Italy's uniquely strong sense of "family." That's why ATSUSHI NAKASHIMA's show, which used fashion to link culture, people, past and present, was so moving. Nakajima's designs, which appeal to a mix of cultures, are based on his seven years working for Jean-Paul Gaultier in Paris. "It was the biggest event of my life. It felt like I'd won the lottery," he said of the moment the job offer came in. But perhaps this was even more miraculous than winning the lottery. Contrary to his image as a man of action who walks the talk, he dressed simply in a white T-shirt and black shorts and spoke softly. While there's no air of overt ambition or blazing energy, Nakajima's straightforward gaze and upright attitude convey a quietly burning passion for craftsmanship. We spoke to Nakajima, who possesses both skill, talent, and luck, about his history as a designer, the significance of holding a show in Milan, and his future aspirations.


-- Can you tell us what inspired you to aim to become a fashion designer?

Perhaps due to my lineage of painters, I was fascinated with drawing as a child. It wasn't until I was in high school that I became fully absorbed in fashion. My family was against it, saying, "There's no way you could become a designer," so after graduating from high school, I got a job at a regular company and worked there for a year. However, I couldn't give up my dream of becoming a designer, so I quit my job and used my own savings to attend vocational school.


-- Even while I was a vocational school student, did you have in mind a dream of working overseas in the future?

I was really bad at English, so I didn't really think about it. I'm the type of person who will thoroughly pursue things I like, but won't put my energy into things I don't (laughs).

But one day, I watched a video of an international collection show for the first time at school, and was impressed by the new world of "mode." From then on, I vaguely began to dream of attending an international show like Paris Fashion Week, and I harbored a secret thought in my heart: "Someday..."


-- With that dream in mind, what kind of career plan did you have after graduating from vocational school?

After working at a sewing factory, I wanted to gain experience as a pattern maker, and eventually launch my own brand. I wanted to be a designer who could create things, not just draw design sketches, so that's how I planned it.

However, the work I was assigned to at the sewing factory was poor... I worked without any days off until the early hours of the morning, and it was physically and mentally draining. Six people in that position had all quit in a row, but I had decided to stay for three years, so I persevered. Then, the opportunity to move to France presented itself. After working there for about two and a half years, I won the Grand Prix at the Onward Fashion Awards. Jean-Paul Gaultier, who was invited as a special judge that year, asked me if I wanted to work for him, and I decided to move to France.

When Gaultier offered me the job, I was probably happiest about being able to leave the sewing factory, rather than about going to Paris or working for him. It was a truly difficult two and a half years.


-- It wasn't just your talent that attracted Gaultier's attention; perhaps it was luck you earned through hard work and perseverance. What kind of life awaited you after you moved to France?

I couldn't speak any French, let alone English, so I couldn't do my job reliably for the first six months. Even when given instructions, I would make something different, and I had a lot of worries both at work and in my personal life. However, I think my tough experience at the sewing factory gave me patience and determination (laughs).

I was an intern for the first year, so I had run out of savings and applied to the HR department to become a full-time employee. However, at the time, Gaultier was laying off 30 employees, so I was turned down. When I finally told Mr. Gaultier about it, he didn't even seem to know I was an intern, and he helped me become a full-time employee despite the situation. He then gave me the position of head designer of the diffusion line, and I served as Mr. Gaultier's assistant for seven years.

For me, these seven years were an important experience that formed the foundation of the current ATSUSHI NAKASHIMA brand. I learned many perspectives and ways of thinking that I didn't have while I was in Japan.

--Continued in Part 2.