What exactly does the word "fashion" refer to? The answer is as varied as the individual, or perhaps even a hundred different people. To those living in the world of "fashion"—both past and future—I'd like to pose a simple question: "What is fashion?" For our first installment, designer Yoshikazu Yamagata will answer this question. Born in Tottori Prefecture in 1980, he graduated with honors from the Women's Wear course at the Department of Fashion Design at Central Saint Martins University of Art and Design in 2005. After working as an assistant to John Galliano, he returned to Japan and launched his own brand, "writtenafterwards," in April 2007. In 2013, he produced the "Zetsumei Exhibition" with Mikio Sakabe. In addition to his work as a designer, he also runs "Koko no Gakko," a forum for learning about fashion expression. He is one of the designers whose unique creations demonstrate the broad scope of fashion. What does fashion mean to Yamagata, who shows a new way of looking at fashion that goes beyond the glamorous side of fashion seen on runways and in magazines?
--When did you first become aware of the existence of "fashion"?
At first, I became interested in dressing myself up. It was when I was in junior high school. Just like being interested in the opposite sex, I gradually began to pay attention to fashion. I started to think deeply about fashion when I read a book by Seiichi Washida. I realized how deep fashion is and thought that I could make it my life's work. From there, I became more and more absorbed in it.
--In fashion, there is clothing worn daily (real clothes) and clothing created as a result of creation, and there is a discrepancy between the two. How do you strike that balance?
I'm not good at striking a good balance, so for the past few years I've focused on creating. But now I'm starting to think that I might be able to find a way to balance both in my own way. I'd also like to try my hand at clothing with a more realistic feel.

--Was there a particular trigger that made you start making real clothes?

In 2012, I did a show called "Seven Lucky Gods." It took a long time and I was extremely focused mentally on creating it, and I was able to fully express all the frustrations I had been able to express but hadn't. Thanks to that show, I was able to form many new relationships, broaden my perspective, and find some things I was able to accept. So now, I feel like I can create more mentally balanced clothing and make more realistic clothes.

--Your creations question the image of fashion that people have. Why do you continue to question such things?

When I see things that people say are unacceptable, I wonder if they're really true. I have a desire to express those aspects, and I want to use them as my subject matter. That's what fuels my creations.

--Where does that energy come from?

At first, I think it was my own complex, my feelings of inferiority, and my desire not to be ridiculed. That was the first switch, a gentle accelerator. From there, perhaps because I'm someone who can't stop once I'm absorbed, I was increasingly drawn into the depth and uniqueness of fashion. From there, I started to feel like, "Don't underestimate fashion!" (laughs). I really wanted to tell people how wonderful fashion is, and that became my energy.

To be continued on 2/2.