The feelings that went into a single striped cut-and-sew shirt were so straightforward and sincere. This article chronicles a day during my trip to Niigata, when I met Yuichiro Koyanagi, the representative of G.F.G.S., a factory brand that primarily produces high-quality cut-and-sew items.

Based in Kamo City, Niigata Prefecture, G.F.G.S. is a factory brand that produces cut-and-sew items made to order from 100% pure organic cotton. Every process, from planning to sewing and shipping, is carried out with a close eye, a style that could be described as "local production." The representative is Yuichiro Koyanagi, whose family also ran a sewing business (Koyanagi Meriyasu).

We spoke to Koyanagi at G.F.G.S. DESIGN LAB., located on the second floor of Chiyoda Bakery, a long-established bakery in the shopping district in front of Kamo Station. This is the base where G.F.G.S. products are sewn, cut, inspected, and shipped, and it also serves as an office and shop. Also located about a five-minute walk away is DESIGN LAB. 2, where knitting machines, cutting machines, industrial sewing machines, and operating computers are all concentrated in a compact space. The G.F.G.S. team currently consists of six people, and together with experienced craftsmen, they continue to create products with integrity.



-Please tell us how G.F.G.S. was established.

Koyanagi-san: I was originally working for a company in my 20s, as an office worker, but when my father started thinking about what to do with the business, I felt I had to do something, so I took over the company and entered this industry. However, even though I was taking over, my thinking was to start from scratch. For the future of the sewing industry, I believe it is important to have quick succession of generations and to start new things by founding a company. I started by making our classic striped cut-and-sew shirt (now sold as our first model, "Classic") from scratch.

- When I picked up the cut-and-sew shirt, I was impressed by the soft, warm texture of the fabric, like a sweater, and its soft feel.



Koyanagi: I use 100% organic cotton from Texas. I try out various types myself and import the cotton that I find best in terms of feel and comfort. The cotton industry in Texas has a long history and is well-established as a business. For example, in India, cotton is produced by hand, and there is a class system and economic disparity among producers. On the other hand, Texas has many large-scale farms and is a systematic and efficient country, so the quality of the cotton is consistent.

-G.F.G.S. has collaborated not only with its own company, but also with a variety of other companies and designers. What led to you working with Petit Robe Noir, created by Abe Yoshiyo, on this project?

Abe (Petit Robe Noir Designer): One day, before I knew anything about G.F.G.S., a direct mail arrived at our office. I was delighted to see the word "Kamo" (the name of a place in Niigata Prefecture, Abe's hometown), so I contacted them directly. I found out after we got to know each other that we actually had a mutual acquaintance, and Koyanagi thought he had been contacted through word of mouth. It felt like a mysterious bond, like we were already connected, and Koyanagi's presence was always very important in creating something within the context of Niigata this time.

-What was the process of creating something together as a duo?
Koyanagi: It took a lot of trial and error for me to express what Abe wanted, starting with the European and Western sensibilities that Abe is familiar with. I felt that we both had a strong sense of intuition, but because I love music, my way of thinking and my clothing design are based on music. I have a basic melody, and then it's up to someone to remix it. In other words, the stripes are the melody, waiting for someone to arrange it.
Abe: Since last year, I've been making items with G.F.G.S. I'm still researching the meaning of working with Koyanagi and the best way to create my pieces, and I'm also learning a lot myself. This time, I based my design on the G.F.G.S. classic model, which I love, and asked them to use my basic color, navy, throughout. Koyanagi's "Classic" has a soft texture that feels very comfortable. Using these basic elements represents my desire to deepen our collaboration with G.F.G.S. and a new beginning.



Koyanagi: When I first met Abe-chan in Tokyo, she was wrapped in a raccoon-like fur wrap and wearing red lipstick, even though it was summer. I thought she was such a lovely, cute person, and that Ebisu (where Petit Robe Noir's office was located at the time) was great (laughs). I hope that customers will understand that even though Abe-chan has an edgy image, she also has a basic understanding of striped tops like this one.



[Event Information]
"Circle of pieces - Things connected with Petit Robe Noir"
Dates: July 20th - August 1st
Location: West Park, 3rd floor, Isetan Shinjuku Main Building/Promotion


In our next issue, we will be featuring the place where the creations of hammered copperware artisans Kazuya Watanabe and Yoshiyo Abe are born.
→ Return to "The roots of Petit Robe Noir designer Yoshiyo Abe, born in Niigata."
→ Return to the table of contents.