"Batner" inherits the skills and will of its predecessors [Yamagata Knitwear Travelogue Vol.2 -- Okuyama Meriyasu]

Oct 13, 2015

Okuyama Meriyasu is a knitwear manufacturer based in Sagae City, Yamagata Prefecture. Founded in 1951, it has long been a supplier of OEM knitwear to various brands. This unsung hero launched its own knitwear brand, "BATONER," in 2013. The brand's driving force is the company's third-generation founder, Kohei Okuyama. The brand name, BATONER, means "one who takes over the baton" and embodies the desire to pass on the knitwear techniques established by his predecessors to future generations. Okuyama originally had no intention of taking over the family business. "The knitwear companies around me were going out of business one after another, and I saw my father always struggling. I didn't see much of a future for myself," he recalls. However, just as he was getting a job at a fashion-related OEM company in Tokyo and becoming engrossed in the joys of clothing production, he received an SOS from his parents asking him to come back and help them. "Ten years later, I became fascinated with the intricacies of knitwear, and before I knew it, I had mastered every step of the knitwear production process." Batner, founded on this solid technique and production background, is free from the imperfections often associated with regional brands. Okuyama has loved clothes since childhood, and during his training in Tokyo, he learned the know-how and sense of brand establishment. That's why, from the very beginning, everything from the products to the brand logo and lookbook was refined. Naturally, being directly connected to the factory means prices are surprisingly low compared to the surface. As a result, just six seasons after launch, the brand has built accounts with major department stores and select shops, including Mitsukoshi Isetan, United Arrows, Hankyu, and Ships. While many companies now outsource sales to showrooms, Okuyama and sales representative Iwata worked tirelessly together to build relationships, starting from zero. Batner's knitwear is simple yet profound. The single-rib knit sweaters, a staple in the lineup every season, feature a Mount Fuji-like design on the chest and three-dimensional stitches. The chunky Nordic sweaters are crafted to maximize the unique characteristics of the material, thanks to daily visits to the dye factory. The 100% cashmere mid-gauge cable sweaters, also available at Isetan, are made using machines adjusted to enhance the three-dimensionality of the cable stitches. Because the raw materials are selected according to the design, the design and yarn match perfectly. The high level of craftsmanship is a testament to the steady stream of repeat customers at each shop. Okuyama is also considering expanding overseas. "It seems he started by showing his men's collection in Paris," says Okuyama. The more knowledgeable you are about fashion, the more astonished you will be. His creations and the technology of his factory are sure to quietly astound the world. Interview and text by Masuda Kaijiro (fashion journalist)
増田海治郎
  • From the BATTNER 15-16AW collection
  • Mr. Kohei Okuyama, the third generation of Okuyama Melias.
  • Inside Okuyama Melias' own factory in Yamagata.
  • Inside Okuyama Melias' own factory in Yamagata.
  • Inside Okuyama Melias' own factory in Yamagata.
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