While the kimono industry has shrunk to roughly one-tenth of its original size over the past 30 years, the fabrics of Hosoo, a long-established Nishijin weaver, are used in the interiors of renowned luxury brands like Chanel, Dior, and Louis Vuitton. Nishijin weaving, nurtured in Kyoto, involves approximately 20 steps, each performed by a specialized specialist. Some artisans specialize in cutting the foil-covered washi paper into fibers thinner than a human hair—one of Nishijin's distinctive features—while others rethread the thousands of warp threads on looms. These Nishijin weavers are concentrated within a 7km radius of Kamigyo Ward. Masataka Hosoo reflects on how the company has come to its current state, where orders from international brands are endless: "There were two turning points. The first was when we developed our own loom capable of weaving obi at a width of 150cm, adapting the traditional 32cm-wide looms designed specifically for obi." This has dramatically expanded the range of items using Nishijin-ori, including interior design and clothing. Since 2010, one wider loom has been added each year, and currently five looms produce a rhythmic sound. This bold attempt to change the weaving width has opened new avenues for Nishijin-ori, including on the runways of Paris Fashion Week and in the interiors of luxury brands around the world.

Another key point is "leaving the creations to the designers and creators." Around eight years ago, Hosoo exhibited Japanese-patterned cushions at his first overseas exhibition. While he received orders from overseas department stores, the cushion budget remained small. While struggling to commercialize his work, he had the opportunity to exhibit his main business, obi (sashes), at the Louvre Museum of Decorative Arts. When this exhibition traveled to New York, a designer noticed a Nishijin-ori obi.

Architect Peter Marino fell in love with the elegant obi, and in May 2009, he received an email from him. After that, Hosoo's Nishijin-ori began to adorn the walls and interiors of luxury brand stores around the world designed by Peter Marino. "A technique unique to Nishijin-ori is to apply gold or silver leaf to Japanese washi paper with lacquer. This washi paper is cut to a thickness thinner than a hair and woven into the fabric. By weaving gold and silver threads into a multi-layered structure, Nishijin-ori plays a role in highlighting the brand's products while still being able to stand out from the original," says Hosoo.

When asked about future developments, he replied, "It is precisely because Nishijin-ori has competed solely within Japan for 1,200 years that by expanding globally like this, we may be able to make new discoveries. In the same way, I think opportunities are expanding for traditional crafts other than Nishijin-ori. And I want to ensure that the sound of these looms continues to be heard in Nishijin."

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