Sakura mochi, chimaki, yam buns, monaka, rakugan, yokan...wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets), incorporating the seasons, climate, and traditions, are a familiar sight to the Japanese people. Wagashi are packed with the beauty and charm of Japan. These small ambassadors of Japanese culture, like washoku (traditional Japanese cuisine) and sake, are now garnering attention in Western countries.



How are wagashi perceived outside of Japan?
We visited Paris, France, a powerhouse of gourmet food and the land of sweets, to visit beloved wagashi shops and artisans in Paris.

Approaching its 40th anniversary since its Paris expansion,
TORAYA PARIS is beloved by the city and its people.

When it comes to Japanese sweets in Paris, "TORAYA PARIS" is the first thing that comes to mind. Opened in 1980 by the 16th generation owner of Toraya, with the aim of spreading Japanese culture abroad through Japanese sweets. The store is located on Rue Saint-Florentin, at the intersection of Rue Saint-Honoré, where venerable fashion houses like Hermès and Chanel are located. "When we first opened, I heard stories of customers mistaking our yokan for soap, and there was also a strong sense of discomfort with the sweetened red bean paste," says Manager Atsuko Ichihara.



TORAYA PARIS, with its noren curtain just like in Japan


Despite these cultural differences, the beautiful designs, elegant names, delicate flavors, and sweet and adorable ambassadors of Japanese culture have captured the hearts of Parisians, who value tradition and culture. In 1997, it was ranked second in the "Paris Salon de The Best 30" by Le Figaro, France's leading newspaper, and has become a beloved presence among Parisians, along with Japanese sweets.



The bright, sun-filled interior. The particularly large table is known as the "Yokan Table."

Enjoy Paris-exclusive yokan in a cozy salon de thé atmosphere

Today, the store also stocks Paris-exclusive sweets filled with chocolate and fruit. The baked apple yokan and fig yokan, which were introduced in 1997, have become staple items. Other items include yokan made with chocolate and caramel, and marron buns filled with candied chestnuts or chestnut paste. These Paris-exclusive sweets, which blend Japanese and French flavors perfectly, are said to be extremely popular.



A set of the popular fig yokan (6.0€) and chestnut bun (6.8€) with matcha. (Prices at the cafe)

At Salon de Thé, you'll often see young men and women dining alone, along with the gentlemen and ladies enjoying matcha and premium sweets. In 2015, architect Tsuyoshi Tane renovated the store to "express the spirit of Japanese culture," making it even more welcoming. The shop is filled with natural light, and the gentle space, with no sharp corners from the ceiling, pillars, chairs, or tables, makes you feel comfortable just sitting there.



The relaxed atmosphere is also a place where regular customers gather.

It's important to properly convey the worldview surrounding Japanese sweets

Staff members can often be seen explaining the sweets to visitors. "No matter how beautiful something is, it won't sell if you just display it. It's important to convey the worldview of Japanese sweets, such as their origins and culture. That's what makes eating them so enjoyable," says Ichihara.

TORAYA PARIS promotes Japanese sweets and Japan in Paris.



A showcase lined with beautiful fresh sweets and adorable manju



Interviewed and written by Mori Yukiko

<Profile>
She often interviews long-established Edo businesses and artisans, and is a fan of sumo, kabuki, rakugo, and Edo culture. She currently writes a column titled "Adult Edo Walks" in the online magazine "Kurashi to Oshare no Editorial Office" (Shufu to Seikatsusha). She plans to start a series on Japanese sweets in 2019.