© Jean-François José

Hermès, designed by Nadége Vanhée-Cybulski, held its Spring/Summer 2018 women's collection show at the Palais de Chaillot in Paris on October 2nd.

Interestingly, the booklet containing explanations of all the looks included a poem on the theme of key colors by former Pulp member Jarvis Cocker. The collection included blue-black, a color Nadège Vanghé-Cybulski has referenced since her debut, a transparent pale wet blue, the beige-like Ficelle reminiscent of hemp rope, the deep Rouge H, the dark Ultra Violet, and the elegant pink Granité. Other colors included a butter yellow that was close to beige, and the contrast between light and dark colors, along with primary hues like green, yellow, and red, created a truly diverse color palette.

The "tablier" (apron) was a key element this season, and the theme was how to incorporate functional items into the modern wardrobe. Knit dresses and wrap dresses directly reminiscent of aprons were also seen, but items that expanded on the apron's characteristic of enveloping the body with large pieces of fabric also attracted attention.

The collection opened with a checked poncho, a central motif this season. By changing the position of the side buttons, the piece can be worn in a variety of ways. The outfit was paired with a silk shirt featuring sporty tape on the sleeves and nubuck shorts. The belt was decorated with a tongue-play motif, a design used to prevent horses from biting their tongues, exuding the playful spirit of a house with roots in a saddlery workshop. Other pieces included a blouson made from a thick, woven leather belt, a dress gathered with smocking, and a gown coat made from a patchwork of different materials, showcasing various interpretations of check. This season's main scarf motif was "Grand Manége," depicting horse harnesses. In addition to simple blouses, the collection also featured wrap dresses, graphic pants, and shirts with delicate watercolor-like prints. While adhering to Hermès' traditional codes, such as scarf motifs and harness details, the collection impresses with its ingeniously developed themes, transforming them into contemporary garments.