Fashion director Sota Yamaguchi pioneers a new world of traditional and updated fashion at the Shinjuku Isetan Tokyo Liberation Zone [INTERVIEW]

Sep 14, 2015

Souta Yamaguchi, owner of "MIKIRIHASSIN" in Harajuku, which stocks domestic brands, and "PARYUKO" in Shibuya PARCO, is a creative director of a wide range of projects centered around fashion, transcending the boundaries of culture, streetwear, and fashion.

In 2014, he launched the lifestyle brand "KORI-SHOW," which proposes "future living" through "the future of Japanese manufacturing," and his activities show no signs of slowing down.

Yamaguchi will be appearing in the TOKYO Kaihoku Zone at Isetan Shinjuku Main Store. He will be serving as the general director of "Tatamu/Tsutsumu/Musubu" (September 16th-30th), an exhibition that expands on ancient Japanese gestures and proposes fashion that is updated from tradition.
We spoke to him about the project, the shops he manages, "KORI-SHOW," and the future of Japanese manufacturing.

--How do you interpret the "Folding/Tsumumu/Knotting" project, Mr. Yamaguchi, and how is that worldview reflected in your products?

Focusing too much on the actions of "Folding/Tsumumu/Knotting" can lead to the typical concept-driven, overly conceptual product design, so I made a conscious effort to reinterpret the actions with a modern sensibility and incorporate them into fashion. By incorporating the concepts of "Folding/Tsumumu/Knotting" into the brand's product design, which expresses a modern vibe, I hope to create new value that is relevant today. Rather than the so-called "aesthetic sense dwelling in tradition" that has long been talked about, I hope that people will enjoy the current vibe and fashion that can be felt in the actions.

--Specifically, what kind of products will be developed?

Even if it expresses "tsutsumu," incorporating something like a "furoshiki with a modern pattern" into it is a redesign, but it is not fashion. As an example of the modern use of wrapping, the Spoken Words Project, a popular brand known for its hand-dyed original textiles, has released a bag that incorporates the functions of a furoshiki into the design of a tote bag. This bag allows the versatile functions of furoshiki to be easily carried around, making it a part of modern fashion. : I also ordered a pair of pump sneakers from nir, a handmade shoe maker, that combines pumps and sneakers and has the added function of "tying." The chic pumps are transformed into something completely different when tied with sneakers. Not only are they highly fashionable, but the design is also very easy to walk in.

--Another product that combines the traditional techniques of a long-established company and a popular brand is the scarf from mintdesigns.

I thought it would be interesting to express the graphics of mintdesigns, which is renowned for its modern textile design, using the Arimatsu shibori technique, which has been around since the Edo period. I wanted to combine the openness created by the hand-made Arimatsu shibori with the flawlessness of mintdesigns' modern graphic design. Both brands are very particular about their work, so it was quite a challenge to land the deal on this.

--"Tatamu/Tsutsumu/Musubu" features a diverse lineup of cutting-edge designers, trending brands, and long-established companies specializing in traditional crafts. What perspective do you use to select these creators?

I choose long-established companies that amaze us with their traditional techniques and unique manufacturing methods, as well as brands and designers that are constantly exploring new possibilities. There's something amazing about old things, and there's also something amazing about new things. As with every project, I want to work with people who are creating products that are close to the essence, products with a high level of strength.

--What do you think is the appeal of Shibuya and Harajuku culture, like "Mikirihasshin" and "Paruko," and timeless craftsmanship, like KORI-SHOW?

With "Mikirihasshin" and "Paruko," I want to propose a "perspective for looking at the world" that encompasses both clothing and objects. To make this perspective and understanding easier to understand, we sometimes use well-known motifs like Shibuya or Harajuku in our brand. We believe that our appeal lies in the ability to constantly explore new ideas while remaining experimental and contemporary. At KORI-SHOW, we also enjoy the excitement of working with artisans who possess highly-durable traditional techniques to create new value. While our sensibilities are as different as those between ready-to-wear and haute couture, we hope to work together to create world-class products in the fashion market.

--What is your vision for the future of Japanese craftsmanship?

In an effort to raise awareness of traditional crafts and manufacturing practices across Japan, there has been an increase in projects where national and local governments invest funds in collaborations with famous designers. The message these projects are trying to convey is simply that people should see the craftsmanship of the regions where they are produced. We want people to understand more about the potential that each region possesses. While huge sums of money are currently being spent on this, conversely, if customers who choose and buy things could understand the craftsmanship behind them, I believe the essence of a product would be conveyed in a simpler form, without the need to transform it through design. Even from a consumer's perspective, I believe that choosing things intuitively is extremely important. Therefore, even if you simply understand what is and isn't available in the marketplace, your perspective on choosing things will change dramatically. Beyond that, I believe the fascinating stories behind craftsmanship await. To achieve this, I believe it's important to first capture customers' interest with a catchy spot that can catch anyone's eye. That's why proposing this project in the TOKYO Liberation Zone at Isetan Shinjuku is significant. First of all, I want people to feel that it's cool and stylish. Beyond that, I want to convey through the fashion sales floor that the coolness of craftsmanship lies hidden within.
【Event Details】
"Folding/Wrapping/Tying", a project directed by Yamaguchi Sota
■September 16th to 28th: Isetan Shinjuku Main Building 2nd floor = Center Park/TOKYO Kaihoku
■October 21st to 27th: Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Building 2nd floor = Space #2
        : JR Kyoto Isetan 3rd floor = The Stage #3
■November 18th to December 1st: Lucua 4th floor Isetan Closet/The Stage
>
【Profile】
Stylist and Fashion Director Yamaguchi Sota
Born in 1982. Graduated from Bunka Fashion College. In March 2006, he opened MIKIRIHASSIN in a mixed-use building in Shimokitazawa. In January 2009, he moved to Harajuku Cat Street. He also works as a stylist for culture, fashion, and street magazines, advertisements, etc. In 2014, he teamed up with Japanese manufacturers and cutting-edge designers to launch the lifestyle brand "KORI-SHOW" in Paris, proposing "future living" through "future Japanese manufacturing."
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