A business that wants people to enjoy silk in their daily lives launches a new brand, "cilk," under the supervision of Sota Yamaguchi. [Where fashion is born]

Mar 1, 2016
The pop-up event "Silk's Path Play" kicks off at Isetan Shinjuku on March 2nd. It aims to communicate the appeal and potential of silk while encouraging people to enjoy it in their daily lives.

In January of this year, fashion director Sota Yamaguchi visited Ashikaga, Tochigi Prefecture, and Kiryu, Gunma Prefecture, two of Japan's leading textile-producing regions. His goal was to develop products for "cilk," a new brand being launched through "Silk's Path Play." This time, FASHION HEADLINE accompanied the toile checks and sample checks, hoping to share the stories behind the products before they reach the stores.

■ Gachaman Lab's Vision for Launching a New Brand for Enjoying Silk in Everyday Life

Five Kanto businesses (Gachaman Lab, Isei Orimono, Toshitex, Hirose Dyeing Factory, and Maruka) are collaborating to debut the new brand cilk, based on the concept of "everyday use of silk."

Takahashi Jinri of Gachaman Lab in Ashikaga City, Tochigi Prefecture, launched the brand as a way to carry on the tradition of Ashikaga Meisen kimono, a style that adorned Japanese women 100 years ago, and to advocate casual ways of wearing silk. For silk to be worn daily, being able to wash it at home is an important point. The brand utilizes silk as a washable fabric. On this day, everyone present in the atelier worked through trial and error to create toile check tops and dresses supervised by Yamaguchi. They also discussed how to balance the silk-like feel with ease of handling for the silk-blend textiles used in each item. The answer to the question, "What is real everyday use of silk?" is embodied in cilk's items.

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cilk's toile check was created with the texture of silk in mind.


■ The potential of needle punch, an expression that is neither knitting nor weaving: Tex.Box

Sawa Toshikazu of Tex.Box in Kiryu City, Gunma Prefecture, originally worked in sales for a textile company. He became a needle punch creator because he believed that "it is impossible to convey the voices of the people on the front lines through paper or words. It is more fun to get things done with your own hands." It seems that various inspirations were welling up in Yamaguchi's mind as he encountered the technique of needle punching, a unique technique that adds character to textiles, neither weaving nor knitting. Here, designer Yamagata Yoshikazu visited the Texbox later and created an original textile for "Silk Path Play." We will introduce the story of Sawa and Yamagata at a later date. It was a lively experience as textiles with new textures and patterns were born before his eyes. He also felt that the potential of needle punching lies in bringing out the individuality of materials.

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Tex Box.'s Toshikazu Sawa and fashion director Sota Yamaguchi


■ Toshitex's lace, which also works with domestic and international designer brands

The history of knitted lace is said to have begun in Kiryu City, Gunma Prefecture, around 1955. Toshiyuki Kaneko of Toshitex is a creator who is always inventive and innovative in finding new expressions, such as developing a technique for weaving metal chains into lace using an original knitting machine. We were shown around the sample room next to the workshop, where he showed us one expressive lace knitting technique after another. The materials used are diverse, including metal, paper, knit, and fur. With a curious eye, Toshitex is always creating unique and new knitting expressions. I learned that many materials have traveled from this place to the world.

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Toshiyuki Kaneko and Sota Yamaguchi of Toshitex, who constantly propose new materials


■ The challenge of Isei Orimono, weaver of kimono obi belts

As I visited Isei Orimono in Kiryu City, Gunma Prefecture, early in the new year, I found a magnificent New Year's decoration at the back of the entrance. Originally a kimono obi weaver, Yoshihiro Inoue and Shinobu launched the lifestyle goods brand "OLN" in 2014. As is typical of Isei Orimono, a weaver, they laid out samples and threads on a tatami mat and Yamaguchi and I immediately checked them out. They lined up stoles of different sizes and weave patterns and adjusted the colors and designs. The colors and patterns were impressive, and went well with both Western and Japanese clothing. And while they were flexible in adopting the opinions of those around them, they also seemed to maintain their own philosophy as makers.

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Working with Yoshihiro Inoue of Isei to coordinate the colour and pattern of a silk stole


From the Meiji period to 1965, silk was one of Japan's leading exports. However, with the rise of synthetic fibres, Japan's silk industry subsequently declined. The reality is that today, domestically produced silk accounts for less than 1% of the silk consumed in Japan.

What's interesting about "Silk No Mi-Yu" is that it's not tied to a single silk producing region. And it doesn't have to be 100% silk, it can also be a blend of silk and other materials. In other words, even if the silk used is from Brazil, which is considered to be of the highest quality today, the key point is that the item contains silk. Regarding this, Yamaguchi commented, "When the project first kicked off, we discussed with everyone about the origin of the silk and the silk blend ratio. As a result, we decided to proceed with the project with the idea that there is a limit to what can be done with purely domestic silk, so blending it with polyester makes it possible to enjoy silk in everyday life."

【Event Information】
Title: Silk's Path - Play-

Date: March 2nd to 8th
Location: Isetan Shinjuku Main Building 2nd Floor = TOKYO Liberation Zone

Date: March 9th to 15th
Location: Mitsukoshi Ginza 3rd Floor = Le Place Promotion Space / JR Kyoto Isetan 5th Floor = Special Venue
Shigematsu Yuka
  • Fashion director Sota Yamaguchi
  • Cilk's toile check was done
  • Choose materials that incorporate silk with different textures
  • Toshikazu Sawa of Texbox
  • At Sawa's workshop
  • Gachaman Lab's Jinri Takahashi
  • Toshikazu Sawa of Texbox
  • Toshiyuki Kaneko and Souta Yamaguchi of Toshitex
  • Toshiyuki Kaneko of Toshitex
  • Tositex knitting machines
  • Tositex knitting machines
  • Tositex items that convey the texture of silk
  • Yamaguchi in a meeting with Yoshihiro Inoue of Isei
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