The new Spring/Summer 2016 collections are starting to hit store shelves. While you've already finished checking out what you'll buy and wear this spring, I decided to consider the background of the products you're acquiring and the necessity of them being on store shelves.
Five months ago, in October 2015, the 2016 Spring/Summer Paris Fashion Week took place. The day after each fashion house's new releases were published, Style.com (now Vogue.com) distributed breaking news to the world. By the following month, the collection analysis was complete, and somewhere in your mind, you'd already determined that lace would be the hot material and white would be the trendy color. If the words of real bloggers spread on social media resonated with you, you might be formulating your shopping plans based on their opinions. Now, as new items begin to arrive in boutiques, I decided to revisit the collection to suggest that the same clothes can look different when viewed from a different perspective.
I took a look at "genderless," a trending keyword that has been around for about three seasons. This word means "transcending gender differences." In the 20th century, women actively traded long skirts for miniskirts, sporting trousers and tailored jackets, standing shoulder to shoulder with men. Women's fashion evolved, with terms like "unisex" and "androgynous" replacing the usual. In the 21st century, men's fashion also underwent a transformation, with more men embracing ruffled shirts and skirt-like pants. Designers like Jonathan Anderson have emerged, breaking down gender barriers and proposing the same materials and designs. (This phenomenon, expressible through design ideas and techniques, can be seen as a sign of social change.) However, when comparing collections by female and male designers, gender differences become apparent. Female designers first propose the clothes they want to wear, while male designers incorporate their fantasies into their designs. This is not a new phenomenon; it has been the same since the general public began to enjoy fashion. Female designers start with the clothes they want to wear now. Male designers have the delusion that women with innovative ideas must want and desire to wear such clothes. Women, therefore, choose their clothes based on which presentations they approve of. Male designers' clothes appear sexy because they pursue aesthetic beauty. In contrast, female designers are surprisingly realistic, using keywords like "easy to wear" and "comfort" to create clothes that are free from outdated ideas, often placing male gazes second.
By becoming aware of whether the clothes you've casually chosen are by a male or female designer, your perspective on fashion will change. We explored another perspective by contrasting tradition and innovation, emotion and intellect, and points (mode) and surfaces (style).
From the Perspective of a Male Designer
Dior
This series is a modern interpretation of 19th century Victorian lingerie, and the cotton voile creates a pure image. The supple lines of the pleated bar jacket exude refined elegance.
Lanvin
This collection celebrates the artisans who support Lanvin, with the theme of "Manifesto," which represents the truth created by human hands. We got a glimpse of Alber Elbaz's delicacy through his couture-like techniques, designing the process by which clothes are completed.
LOUIS VUITTON
Catching an era in which digital society is gaining momentum, Nicolas Ghesquière transformed the world of Final Fantasy into a fashionable style using metallic film material and pixel patterns. Reliable quality will be the driving force behind the creations of the future.
Saint Laurent
Hedi Slimane doesn't just trace the shape of Monsieur Saint Laurent, he reads his mind. He combines rock festival Wellington boots with a couture-inspired dress to create the ultimate expression of luxury. The rebellious spirit reminiscent of Monsieur is still alive and well.
Maison Margiela
A new Margiela, written in the unique context of the romantic and creative John Galliano. The collection transcends time and nationality and is comprised of 50s couture and kimono dresses. The Maison's codes are reinterpreted with a unique flair.
CHANEL
The eternal Paris Collection is held at the Grand Palais, where Chanel holds its events. The venue has been transformed into an airport counter, and the wardrobe essentials for ladies who fly with Chanel Airlines are on display. Trends are expressed through shoes.
<div align= "right" >(c) CHANEL
LOEWE
Jonathan Anderson presented a collection made from upcycled vinyl and mirrors, seemingly renewing the image of the long-established leather brand LOEWE. The brand has already introduced a system where some of the collection's items can be purchased online immediately after the collection is released.
DRIES VAN NOTEN
A unique combination of color and unusual patterns, the clothes evoke the dissonance that only Dries could create. The collection used brocade and tulle to create a highly feminine look.
From the Perspective of a Female Designer
Chloe
Combining sports jersey and chiffon creates a fresh look. Chloe, which uses high-quality materials to create a casual style with a 70s feel, has become a benchmark for timeless Parisian chic, captivating women.
Stella McCartney
A tube dress with polo shirt details that gives a new interpretation of casual, a two-tone pleated dress that creates an optical effect as you move, and dresses with embroidery and lacy techniques are must-have items this spring and summer.
HERMES
Nadège Vange-Cybulski, who enjoys working at a fashion house that is always equipped with the finest materials and craftsmanship, has found that one of her responsibilities is to play with her brain. The choice of color and material, and the handling of scarves, are all done with an intellectual touch.
Alexander McQueen
He portrayed graceful female figures using delicate silk materials and romantic floral patterns brought by the Huguenots (Protestants) who fled from France to England in the 17th century after being persecuted by Catholics.
MIU MIU
The Miu Miu collection feels like the start of a fairy tale or fairy tale. Each oversized coat, organza pinafore dress, and princess tiara seems to have a hidden story.
Sacai
Treasures found in second-hand shops include souvenir scarves, gold lace, and chiffon bandanas. The asymmetrical hemline evokes a hint of feminine charm, captivating any woman.
COMME des GARÇONS
The "Blue Witch" exudes glamour and strength in voluminous garments, often made with velvet and marabou. The season's message is always wordless.
Continue to "Past, Present, and Future."
Continue to "The Breath of Fashion."
Five months ago, in October 2015, the 2016 Spring/Summer Paris Fashion Week took place. The day after each fashion house's new releases were published, Style.com (now Vogue.com) distributed breaking news to the world. By the following month, the collection analysis was complete, and somewhere in your mind, you'd already determined that lace would be the hot material and white would be the trendy color. If the words of real bloggers spread on social media resonated with you, you might be formulating your shopping plans based on their opinions. Now, as new items begin to arrive in boutiques, I decided to revisit the collection to suggest that the same clothes can look different when viewed from a different perspective.
I took a look at "genderless," a trending keyword that has been around for about three seasons. This word means "transcending gender differences." In the 20th century, women actively traded long skirts for miniskirts, sporting trousers and tailored jackets, standing shoulder to shoulder with men. Women's fashion evolved, with terms like "unisex" and "androgynous" replacing the usual. In the 21st century, men's fashion also underwent a transformation, with more men embracing ruffled shirts and skirt-like pants. Designers like Jonathan Anderson have emerged, breaking down gender barriers and proposing the same materials and designs. (This phenomenon, expressible through design ideas and techniques, can be seen as a sign of social change.) However, when comparing collections by female and male designers, gender differences become apparent. Female designers first propose the clothes they want to wear, while male designers incorporate their fantasies into their designs. This is not a new phenomenon; it has been the same since the general public began to enjoy fashion. Female designers start with the clothes they want to wear now. Male designers have the delusion that women with innovative ideas must want and desire to wear such clothes. Women, therefore, choose their clothes based on which presentations they approve of. Male designers' clothes appear sexy because they pursue aesthetic beauty. In contrast, female designers are surprisingly realistic, using keywords like "easy to wear" and "comfort" to create clothes that are free from outdated ideas, often placing male gazes second.
By becoming aware of whether the clothes you've casually chosen are by a male or female designer, your perspective on fashion will change. We explored another perspective by contrasting tradition and innovation, emotion and intellect, and points (mode) and surfaces (style).
From the Perspective of a Male Designer
Dior
This series is a modern interpretation of 19th century Victorian lingerie, and the cotton voile creates a pure image. The supple lines of the pleated bar jacket exude refined elegance.
Lanvin
This collection celebrates the artisans who support Lanvin, with the theme of "Manifesto," which represents the truth created by human hands. We got a glimpse of Alber Elbaz's delicacy through his couture-like techniques, designing the process by which clothes are completed.
LOUIS VUITTON
Catching an era in which digital society is gaining momentum, Nicolas Ghesquière transformed the world of Final Fantasy into a fashionable style using metallic film material and pixel patterns. Reliable quality will be the driving force behind the creations of the future.
Saint Laurent
Hedi Slimane doesn't just trace the shape of Monsieur Saint Laurent, he reads his mind. He combines rock festival Wellington boots with a couture-inspired dress to create the ultimate expression of luxury. The rebellious spirit reminiscent of Monsieur is still alive and well.
Maison Margiela
A new Margiela, written in the unique context of the romantic and creative John Galliano. The collection transcends time and nationality and is comprised of 50s couture and kimono dresses. The Maison's codes are reinterpreted with a unique flair.
CHANEL
The eternal Paris Collection is held at the Grand Palais, where Chanel holds its events. The venue has been transformed into an airport counter, and the wardrobe essentials for ladies who fly with Chanel Airlines are on display. Trends are expressed through shoes.
<div align= "right" >(c) CHANEL LOEWE
Jonathan Anderson presented a collection made from upcycled vinyl and mirrors, seemingly renewing the image of the long-established leather brand LOEWE. The brand has already introduced a system where some of the collection's items can be purchased online immediately after the collection is released.
DRIES VAN NOTEN
A unique combination of color and unusual patterns, the clothes evoke the dissonance that only Dries could create. The collection used brocade and tulle to create a highly feminine look.
From the Perspective of a Female Designer
Chloe
Combining sports jersey and chiffon creates a fresh look. Chloe, which uses high-quality materials to create a casual style with a 70s feel, has become a benchmark for timeless Parisian chic, captivating women.
Stella McCartney
A tube dress with polo shirt details that gives a new interpretation of casual, a two-tone pleated dress that creates an optical effect as you move, and dresses with embroidery and lacy techniques are must-have items this spring and summer.
HERMES
Nadège Vange-Cybulski, who enjoys working at a fashion house that is always equipped with the finest materials and craftsmanship, has found that one of her responsibilities is to play with her brain. The choice of color and material, and the handling of scarves, are all done with an intellectual touch.
Alexander McQueen
He portrayed graceful female figures using delicate silk materials and romantic floral patterns brought by the Huguenots (Protestants) who fled from France to England in the 17th century after being persecuted by Catholics.
MIU MIU
The Miu Miu collection feels like the start of a fairy tale or fairy tale. Each oversized coat, organza pinafore dress, and princess tiara seems to have a hidden story.
Sacai
Treasures found in second-hand shops include souvenir scarves, gold lace, and chiffon bandanas. The asymmetrical hemline evokes a hint of feminine charm, captivating any woman.
COMME des GARÇONS
The "Blue Witch" exudes glamour and strength in voluminous garments, often made with velvet and marabou. The season's message is always wordless.
Continue to "Past, Present, and Future."
Continue to "The Breath of Fashion."
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