Yves Saint Laurent's first major retrospective in Japan since his death opens at the National Art Center, Tokyo in Roppongi

Event Date:2023.09.20-12.11
Sep 21, 2023
The National Art Center, Tokyo (Roppongi, Tokyo) has opened "Yves Saint Laurent: Timeless Style," the first major retrospective in Japan dedicated to the late fashion icon Yves Saint Laurent.

Yves Saint Laurent in his office, at his studio at 5 Boulevard Marceau, Paris, 1986 / © Droits réservés
Following Christian Dior's sudden death, Yves Saint Laurent made a stunning debut as a designer for Dior in 1958, and launched his own brand, "Yves Saint Laurent," in 1962. For nearly half a century, until his retirement in 2002, he led the global fashion scene, revolutionizing women's wardrobes by popularizing items such as the safari look, pantsuits, peacoats, and trench coats.

Yves Saint Laurent, Anne-Marie Muñoz, Pierre Bergé, in his studio at 5 Boulevard Marceau, Paris, 1977 / © Guy Marineau
With the full cooperation of the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris, this exhibition marks the first major retrospective of his work to be held in Japan since his death. The exhibition, which is divided into 12 chapters, exhaustively presents the designer's 40-year history, from his stunning debut at just 21 years old to the successful launch of his first collection and the establishment of his own unique style, influenced by fine art, performing arts, and Japan.



This is an extremely rare opportunity to experience up close the unique yet lavish world of beauty created by Yves Saint Laurent, one of the greatest talents of the late 20th century.


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■Venue layout
Chapter 0
The birth of a certain talent

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Chapter 1
1962: First Haute Couture Collection

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After achieving success as a designer and working on six collections for Dior, he founded the haute couture house Yves Saint Laurent in 1961 with Pierre Bergé and others. His first collection, presented the following year, featured pieces such as peacoats inspired by sailor's workwear, which attracted great attention and praise.


Chapter 2
The Yves Saint Laurent Style: Iconic Pieces

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Among Yves Saint Laurent's signature designs, some of his most innovative were his menswear-inspired tuxedos, jumpsuits, safari looks, and trench coats. He created a feminine silhouette that combined simplicity and elegance while retaining the beauty, comfort, and practicality of menswear cuts. The release of these pieces coincided with the rise of the women's liberation movement, and their resonant style ensured their enduring popularity. He also created feminine garments, such as navy blue looks.


Chapter 3
Artistry: Embroidery and Feathers

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Yves Saint Laurent's work relied on the work of many skilled artisans, including weavers, dyers, printers, embroiderers, goldsmiths, and silversmiths. Maintaining close relationships with artisans whose skills had been passed down through the ages allowed him to create the extremely intricate designs seen in the exhibit. His strict perfectionism meant that each piece required hundreds of hours of work.


Chapter 4
Imaginary Journeys

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Through imaginative "desktop" travels fueled by reading and collecting art, Yves Saint Laurent expressed his fantasies of faraway lands such as Morocco, Sub-Saharan Africa, Russia, Spain and Asia through his designs. Eventually, the "exoticism" expressed through vibrant colors and unique shapes became an essential element of Yves Saint Laurent's work.


Chapter 5
History of Clothing

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Throughout his career, Yves Saint Laurent incorporated distinctive European styles from different eras into his designs. His designs freely draw on a wide range of historical styles, from dresses reminiscent of ancient Greek and Roman sculptures to gowns reminiscent of medieval attire, demonstrating his creative freedom while paying homage to the history of fashion.


Chapter 6
Cabinet of Curiosities: Jewelry

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Accessories were a crucial element in Yves Saint Laurent's expression. Rather than limiting himself to natural pearls and precious stones, he frequently used imitation materials such as wood, metal, rhinestones, and beads, allowing for limitless combinations of materials and expanding the scope of his imagination and expression.


Chapter 7
Performing Arts─Graphic Arts

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Fascinated by the living arts, Yves Saint Laurent created numerous costumes for theatre, ballet, music halls, and films. His painterly technique, using colors and materials, and his talent for drawing, conveyed through meticulous, lively, and highly contrasting lines, are clearly evident in the sketches on display in this exhibition.


Chapter 8
Performing Arts - Textiles

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Yves Saint Laurent became fascinated with theater and the stage as a boy growing up in Oran. Throughout his life, he designed costumes for a variety of plays and films, including the film Belle de Jour starring Catherine Deneuve, Jean Cocteau's play The Double-Headed Eagle, and a music hall for which Roland Petit served as artistic director.


Chapter 9
Homage to Artists

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Photo by FASHION HEADLINE

Yves Saint Laurent interacted with many artists, including painters and writers, and produced many works that paid homage to their talents. His strong respect and affection for past painters such as Picasso, Matisse, Braque, Van Gogh, and Bonnard were particularly evident in his work. The fusion of art and fashion brought a breath of fresh air to the traditional world of haute couture.


Chapter 10
Brides

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The wedding dress, which serves as the finale of an haute couture fashion show, is an essential part of the show. Yves Saint Laurent developed both the traditional gown style that had been in place since the end of the 19th century and innovative designs that represented a new image of women.


Chapter 11
Yves Saint Laurent and Japan

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After visiting Japan in 1963, Yves Saint Laurent became fascinated with Japanese culture and traditional crafts, which provided much inspiration for his subsequent creations. At the same time, the style he conveyed also had a variety of influences on the world of Japanese fashion and design. In this chapter, we will explore the relationship between Yves Saint Laurent and Japan through documents.


Yves Saint Laurent on his first visit to Japan, April 1963 /© Droits réservés



Exhibition Details
[Exhibition Title] Yves Saint Laurent, Across the Style
[Dates] Wednesday, September 20, 2023 – Monday, December 11, 2023 (Closed every Tuesday)
編集部
  • Entrance to the "Yves Saint Laurent: Timeless Style" exhibition
  • Yves Saint Laurent at his office, at his studio at 5 Boulevard Marceau, Paris, 1986
  • Yves Saint Laurent, Anne-Marie Muñoz, and Pierre Bergé in their studio at 5 Boulevard Marceau, Paris, 1977
  • Yves Saint Laurent on his first visit to Japan, April 1963
  • Event poster
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