KENZO BY NIGO presents its Spring/Summer 2024 women's and men's collections.
A real-to-wear wardrobe that flies between East and West. The KENZO Spring/Summer 2024 women's and men's collections integrate the Maison's codes, created by Artistic Director Nigo, with a new generation of elegance.
Presented on Passerelle Debilly, which connects the Palais de Tokyo and the Eiffel Tower above the Seine, the collection combines Kenzo Takada's heritage with Nigo's contemporary vision and is reflected in city pop memories. The soundtrack of the designer's youth in 1980s Japan, along with a multi-genre mix of pop, funk, and boogie, imbue the collection with a lighthearted spirit, paired with a graphic, sophisticated, preppy, and poppy look.
The collection flips between Japanese and Western wardrobe codes. Judo jackets are recontextualized as chore jackets, featuring an ancient wave pattern called Seigaiha in indigo. The women's silhouettes are enhanced with elegant lines, accentuated by light layering of transparent fabrics and archival motifs. The collection also features a creative dialogue with Nigo's longtime friend, Japanese graphic artist Verdy, whose signature swash font boldly depicts the KENZO logo on clothing and accessories.
The rise of city pop in post-war Japan coincided with some of the most memorable moments in Kenzo Takada's career. Recent years have seen a global re-evaluation of the genre, driven by a younger generation completely removed from the era and culture that originally paved the way for it, and in Nigo's eyes, it offers a powerful analogy for how KENZO's heritage is relevant in a modern mentality.
The show's soundtrack was created by Cornelius, a contemporary of Nigo's, a friend and occasional collaborator since the mid-1990s. Like Desiigner, he has a deep appreciation for city pop and has created a score that reflects that genre.
Nigo/Courtesy of KENZO
KENZO BY NIGO
Spring/Summer 2024 Women's & Men's Collection
Silhouettes
The collection's elegant sensibility is expressed through ensembles of matching overshirts, tops, and pumps, in keeping with Kenzo Takada's tradition, as well as workwear jacket and skirt combinations. Layered silhouettes, such as ultra-lightweight ankle-length dresses and columnar cardigan dresses that can be worn buttoned or unbuttoned, create a graceful, elongated silhouette. Tailoring in summery linen fabrics suggests the youthful elegance favored by Kenzo Takada. Blazers reflect a Japanese approach to cutting, with kimono-inspired semi-detached sleeves, while collarless trench coats and tailored jackets feature the Verdy KENZO logo. Women's suits are cut with oversized lines contrasting with delicate colors and graphics ranging from baby pink to laser-printed roses. Judo-style sashiko jackets and varsity jackets oscillate between East and West sporty proportions, while American vintage-inspired performance and workwear, and kimono-cut down puffers blend with the essence of Japanese clothing.
Courtesy of KENZO
Courtesy of KENZO
Courtesy of KENZO
Courtesy of KENZO
Themes and Motifs
The KENZO logo, created by Japanese graphic artist Verdy, recontextualizes the House's emblem with all-over swoosh typography in multiple color combinations. "A Drawn Flowers" evokes Takada Kenzo's hand-drawn floral imagery, while "KENZORose" features hyper-realistic imagery inspired by archive knitwear, used as all-over print and placed graphics. Nigo's signature camouflage is integrated into floral patterns in several colors in "Flower Camo." The "Seigaiha" pattern, meaning "blue sea and waves" in Japanese, is used as an ancient map motif on indigo denim and quilting. Pop-art fruit sticker prints adorn shirts and are used as standalone prints, while the Drone Varsity print mimics the graffiti students painted on 1950s American graduation uniforms. Four heritage patterns used on menswear reference Kenzo Takada's early sketches: Shading resembles brushstrokes, Sketch Argyle resembles a stencil, Check Jacquard resembles chalk, and Herringbone Jacquard resembles an arrowhead. The iconic "Bokeh Flower" makes a return as a Devoré floral pattern.
Courtesy of KENZO
Courtesy of KENZO
Courtesy of KENZO
Materials and Techniques
The judo uniforms are crafted from natte, a sporty woven fabric used in workwear. The wave pattern "Seigaiha" (Blue Ocean Wave) is rendered in indigo on denim and jacquard on knitwear. The KENZO Verdy monogram appears in print and jacquard throughout the collection in a variety of materials, including fluid silk, viscose, cotton, and wool. Formalwear is transformed into Japanese fabrics and washed indigo denim, reviving tropes from KENZO jeans of the 1980s and '90s. Leather pieces feature surface treatments that evoke the vintage renditions of the archetypes that inspired them. Increasingly elegant, womenswear is constructed from airy or delicate materials such as devoré, tulle, and broderie anglaise. Knitwear includes graphic jacquards and intarsia, longline sheer alpaca rib, hand-knitted striped mooring fabric, and archive-inspired scale patchwork.
Courtesy of KENZO
Courtesy of KENZO
Bags
Establishing the KENZO by Nigo code, this season's bags draw on Japanese tradition, American practicality, and the Maison's archives. Small totes and backpacks, adorned with leather appliqué logos, are based on the shapes used to carry sake in Japan. Shoulder bags are inspired by rice packaging. Judo uniforms are traditionally rolled up and carried by straps. The KENZO by Verdy logo appears on classic backpacks and KENZO Utility bags, which draw inspiration from the American workwear wardrobe. Messenger bags, backpacks, totes and kendo set bags are crafted in coated and uncoated fabrics. Archival shapes appear on flap and bucket bags, adorned with hand-knitted BOKE flowers.
Courtesy of KENZO
Courtesy of KENZO
Courtesy of KENZO
Shoes
The KENZO PXT (Paris x Tokyo) is a new sneaker born from the codes established by Genetics and Nigo, the Maison's East Meets West collaboration. Crafted from leather and suede, it features reinforced tongue and vamp overlays and a KENZO diamond-cut outsole that curves to match the midsole's contours. The authentic KENZO DOME skate sneaker arrives in new leather and suede colors, while the KENZO PACE leather runner evolves in mixed color combinations. The collection also features the ultra-elegant, draped KENZO Kitten Heel and floral-motif clogs. The KENZO MUKLUK is a Kamik-like performance boot derived from military winter overboots, which also inspired the KENZO COZY sandal.
Courtesy of KENZO
Courtesy of KENZO
Courtesy of KENZO
Courtesy of KENZO
Accessories
Headwear features an exaggerated look, reminiscent of oversized berets and military caps. Taking cues from 1980s street photography, the collection features guard caps, bucket hats, topless straw hats, and baseball caps emblazoned with the KENZO by Verdy logo. This motif also appears on metal belt buckles, alongside tiger head and BOKE buckles, echoing Western wardrobe elements. Japanese influence is evident in judo belts and traditional kendo belts with multiple pockets. In terms of jewellery, the KENZO by Verdy logo appears on necklace pendants, while BOKE enamel accents appear on rings and cufflinks. The medal, a staple of Nigo's collections, takes the shape of a fruit seal studded with the Maison's icons.
Courtesy of KENZO
Courtesy of KENZO
Courtesy of KENZO
Production by Back of the House
Show music by Cornelius
Content production by Kitten
Styling by Marq Rise
Casting by Samuel Ellis Scheinman for DM CASTING
Make up by Lucy Bridge and the Make Up For Ever team
Hair by Anthony Turner using René Furterer
Nails by Ama Quashie
A real-to-wear wardrobe that flies between East and West. The KENZO Spring/Summer 2024 women's and men's collections integrate the Maison's codes, created by Artistic Director Nigo, with a new generation of elegance.
Presented on Passerelle Debilly, which connects the Palais de Tokyo and the Eiffel Tower above the Seine, the collection combines Kenzo Takada's heritage with Nigo's contemporary vision and is reflected in city pop memories. The soundtrack of the designer's youth in 1980s Japan, along with a multi-genre mix of pop, funk, and boogie, imbue the collection with a lighthearted spirit, paired with a graphic, sophisticated, preppy, and poppy look.
The collection flips between Japanese and Western wardrobe codes. Judo jackets are recontextualized as chore jackets, featuring an ancient wave pattern called Seigaiha in indigo. The women's silhouettes are enhanced with elegant lines, accentuated by light layering of transparent fabrics and archival motifs. The collection also features a creative dialogue with Nigo's longtime friend, Japanese graphic artist Verdy, whose signature swash font boldly depicts the KENZO logo on clothing and accessories.
The rise of city pop in post-war Japan coincided with some of the most memorable moments in Kenzo Takada's career. Recent years have seen a global re-evaluation of the genre, driven by a younger generation completely removed from the era and culture that originally paved the way for it, and in Nigo's eyes, it offers a powerful analogy for how KENZO's heritage is relevant in a modern mentality.
The show's soundtrack was created by Cornelius, a contemporary of Nigo's, a friend and occasional collaborator since the mid-1990s. Like Desiigner, he has a deep appreciation for city pop and has created a score that reflects that genre.
Nigo/Courtesy of KENZOKENZO BY NIGO
Spring/Summer 2024 Women's & Men's Collection
Silhouettes
The collection's elegant sensibility is expressed through ensembles of matching overshirts, tops, and pumps, in keeping with Kenzo Takada's tradition, as well as workwear jacket and skirt combinations. Layered silhouettes, such as ultra-lightweight ankle-length dresses and columnar cardigan dresses that can be worn buttoned or unbuttoned, create a graceful, elongated silhouette. Tailoring in summery linen fabrics suggests the youthful elegance favored by Kenzo Takada. Blazers reflect a Japanese approach to cutting, with kimono-inspired semi-detached sleeves, while collarless trench coats and tailored jackets feature the Verdy KENZO logo. Women's suits are cut with oversized lines contrasting with delicate colors and graphics ranging from baby pink to laser-printed roses. Judo-style sashiko jackets and varsity jackets oscillate between East and West sporty proportions, while American vintage-inspired performance and workwear, and kimono-cut down puffers blend with the essence of Japanese clothing.
Courtesy of KENZOCourtesy of KENZOCourtesy of KENZOCourtesy of KENZOThemes and Motifs
The KENZO logo, created by Japanese graphic artist Verdy, recontextualizes the House's emblem with all-over swoosh typography in multiple color combinations. "A Drawn Flowers" evokes Takada Kenzo's hand-drawn floral imagery, while "KENZORose" features hyper-realistic imagery inspired by archive knitwear, used as all-over print and placed graphics. Nigo's signature camouflage is integrated into floral patterns in several colors in "Flower Camo." The "Seigaiha" pattern, meaning "blue sea and waves" in Japanese, is used as an ancient map motif on indigo denim and quilting. Pop-art fruit sticker prints adorn shirts and are used as standalone prints, while the Drone Varsity print mimics the graffiti students painted on 1950s American graduation uniforms. Four heritage patterns used on menswear reference Kenzo Takada's early sketches: Shading resembles brushstrokes, Sketch Argyle resembles a stencil, Check Jacquard resembles chalk, and Herringbone Jacquard resembles an arrowhead. The iconic "Bokeh Flower" makes a return as a Devoré floral pattern.
Courtesy of KENZOCourtesy of KENZOCourtesy of KENZOMaterials and Techniques
The judo uniforms are crafted from natte, a sporty woven fabric used in workwear. The wave pattern "Seigaiha" (Blue Ocean Wave) is rendered in indigo on denim and jacquard on knitwear. The KENZO Verdy monogram appears in print and jacquard throughout the collection in a variety of materials, including fluid silk, viscose, cotton, and wool. Formalwear is transformed into Japanese fabrics and washed indigo denim, reviving tropes from KENZO jeans of the 1980s and '90s. Leather pieces feature surface treatments that evoke the vintage renditions of the archetypes that inspired them. Increasingly elegant, womenswear is constructed from airy or delicate materials such as devoré, tulle, and broderie anglaise. Knitwear includes graphic jacquards and intarsia, longline sheer alpaca rib, hand-knitted striped mooring fabric, and archive-inspired scale patchwork.
Courtesy of KENZOCourtesy of KENZOBags
Establishing the KENZO by Nigo code, this season's bags draw on Japanese tradition, American practicality, and the Maison's archives. Small totes and backpacks, adorned with leather appliqué logos, are based on the shapes used to carry sake in Japan. Shoulder bags are inspired by rice packaging. Judo uniforms are traditionally rolled up and carried by straps. The KENZO by Verdy logo appears on classic backpacks and KENZO Utility bags, which draw inspiration from the American workwear wardrobe. Messenger bags, backpacks, totes and kendo set bags are crafted in coated and uncoated fabrics. Archival shapes appear on flap and bucket bags, adorned with hand-knitted BOKE flowers.
Courtesy of KENZOCourtesy of KENZOCourtesy of KENZOShoes
The KENZO PXT (Paris x Tokyo) is a new sneaker born from the codes established by Genetics and Nigo, the Maison's East Meets West collaboration. Crafted from leather and suede, it features reinforced tongue and vamp overlays and a KENZO diamond-cut outsole that curves to match the midsole's contours. The authentic KENZO DOME skate sneaker arrives in new leather and suede colors, while the KENZO PACE leather runner evolves in mixed color combinations. The collection also features the ultra-elegant, draped KENZO Kitten Heel and floral-motif clogs. The KENZO MUKLUK is a Kamik-like performance boot derived from military winter overboots, which also inspired the KENZO COZY sandal.
Courtesy of KENZOCourtesy of KENZOCourtesy of KENZOCourtesy of KENZOAccessories
Headwear features an exaggerated look, reminiscent of oversized berets and military caps. Taking cues from 1980s street photography, the collection features guard caps, bucket hats, topless straw hats, and baseball caps emblazoned with the KENZO by Verdy logo. This motif also appears on metal belt buckles, alongside tiger head and BOKE buckles, echoing Western wardrobe elements. Japanese influence is evident in judo belts and traditional kendo belts with multiple pockets. In terms of jewellery, the KENZO by Verdy logo appears on necklace pendants, while BOKE enamel accents appear on rings and cufflinks. The medal, a staple of Nigo's collections, takes the shape of a fruit seal studded with the Maison's icons.
Courtesy of KENZOCourtesy of KENZOCourtesy of KENZOProduction by Back of the House
Show music by Cornelius
Content production by Kitten
Styling by Marq Rise
Casting by Samuel Ellis Scheinman for DM CASTING
Make up by Lucy Bridge and the Make Up For Ever team
Hair by Anthony Turner using René Furterer
Nails by Ama Quashie
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