FACETASM and Taro Horiuchi, the two brands that carry the hopes of Tokyo's next generation [INTERVIEW]

Feb 12, 2015

The VERSUS TOKYO pop-up shop, which opened on February 11th at The Stage on the first floor of Isetan Shinjuku, had attendance restrictions in place from the first day, but many fans flocked to the collaboration shop for Tokyo's next wave of designers. Many of the products were limited edition, including collaboration pouches between Shiseido Men, the event's sponsor, and various brands. C.E. T-shirts featuring a collaboration between Shiseido Parlour and Masayoshi Nakajo's illustrations sold out on the first day. SIMONE INC., represented by Kaie Murakami, designed a clean, pop space for brands that don't usually come together. We interviewed Hiromichi Ochiai of FACETASM and Taro Horiuchi of TARO HORIUCHI, two designers who participated in the event and are expected to be Tokyo's next wave of brands.
--Mr. Ochiai, you've been participating in Versa Tokyo since the very first event, so I imagine you have special feelings for the event.
Ochiai Hiromichi: (Versa Tokyo) I've participated in all three events to date, and it was a big step up for me. Because the shows are open to the general public, we're conscious of making the shows themselves more entertaining than usual. Especially since the last show in October was the finale of Tokyo Fashion Week, we avoided creating a gloomy atmosphere and instead focused on creating an upbeat atmosphere. Every time, we have a large audience, and I feel a sense of mission to create something that will lead to the next event, both for the fans who lined up at the time and those who couldn't get in.
--Mr. Horiuchi, the last show in October was your first time participating, and your first time giving a presentation in Japan. What were your impressions of participating?
Horiuchi Taro: It was fun (laughs). While the presentation will remain focused on the clothes, as is usually the case at exhibitions, this event was open to the general public, so I was pleased that pattern makers, factory workers, and other people involved with the brands were able to see the clothes being worn by models. It would have been difficult to gather so many brands together without the help of (Versa Tokyo) Special Organizer) Yuichi Yoshii, and I'm happy to have been able to participate in this way on the center stage of Isetan Shinjuku, a venue that is rarely accessible to a single brand.

--Do the designers of the participating brands usually have relationships with each other?

Horiuchi: I often meet and talk with Ochiai. C.E. is a brand I personally like, and I often buy their clothes when I'm overseas. I even bought the black and white knit sweater they're selling at Isetan this time. I often see (Yasuko) Furuta of TOGA at live events at Liquid Room (laughs). Ochiai: Furuta from TOGA is one of the most energetic designers working in Tokyo today, and I have long respected him. I have also long admired Skateshin from C.E, and it is an honor to be able to share the same sales floor this time. I have also done a pop-up shop with Ganryu, the designer from Ganryu, who participated in the second Versus Tokyo, on the second floor of the Isetan Men's Building. Of course, I also know Osumi (Takeshi, designer of Phenomenon and Mr. Gentleman), who has been participating since the first event, very well, so it is both exciting and stimulating to have our items lined up in the same sales floor. ■ The essence of Tokyo is "elegance in a pop style" (Ochiai) and "sophisticated street style" (Horiuchi) -- Ochiai, you participated in "Showroom Tokyo," a JFW support event, during Paris Men's Fashion Week in January. How do you feel about the attention Tokyo brands are getting from overseas? Also, what do you think is the essence of Tokyo in fashion? Ochiai: We're more well-known in Paris than I expected, and I feel there's a lot of potential for the future. I understand that we're building on the path paved by the designers who've been active in Paris up until now. It's difficult to sum up "Tokyo-ness" in one word, but I think it's the element of giving form to what we love, and the way we express that through clothing, where even pop styles have a sense of elegance. However, even though we might describe it as "mode," in Tokyo it's simply absorbed into street fashion, and I've recently become very aware of the difference between overseas and Japanese fashion. --Mr. Horiuchi, you've lived in London and Antwerp for a long time, so I imagine you've had an objective view of Tokyo fashion. Horiuchi: In short, I think Tokyo fashion is "refined street." American street fashion has a more rugged, casual image, while Tokyo is characterized by a contemporary street feel. Perhaps it's genre-less. However, this hasn't become more apparent recently; I think it's something that Tokyo designers have always had latent, and its evolved form is manifested in the current support of brands like "KENZO." In an age where everything is borderless and the wearer can express anything they want, perhaps the borderless style of Tokyo fashion is attracting attention.

--Finally, could you explain a bit about the products being sold at this pop-up shop?

Ochiai: I've wanted to release a camouflage-patterned military jacket for a while, and I made one especially for this occasion. It's catchy, so I thought it would be great. Personally, I like the iPhone case with the wave graphic, which is the season's theme. I haven't used a case before, but putting one on makes me feel good. I also like the limited edition pouch with Shiseido, which has the same pattern.

Horiuchi: We've been selling our women's clothing at Isetan Shinjuku since 2011, the year after our debut, but for the first time, we've created a men's T-shirt specifically for this occasion. The flag illustration is inspired by the American flag that is planted on the surface of the moon when we land on it, as the theme of the season's collection was "UFO." All items except for the frisbee bag were made especially for this occasion, and the lineup is designed to be more casual than the collection line.
野田達哉
  • Taro Horiuchi (left) and Hiromichi Ochiai (right)
  • FACETASM and Taro Horiuchi, the two brands that carry the hopes of Tokyo's next generation [INTERVIEW]
  • Facetasm designer Hiromichi Ochiai
  • Taro Horiuchi Designer Taro Horiuchi
  • Horiuchi's feet
  • Limited edition T-shirt (left) designed by Masayoshi Nakajo
  • FACETASM and Taro Horiuchi, the two brands carrying the hopes of Tokyo's next generation [INTERVIEW]
  • Pouches created in collaboration between Shiseido and various brands
  • VERSUS TOKYO THE STAGE held at The Stage on the first floor of the main building of Isetan Shinjuku
  • VERSUS TOKYO THE STAGE held at The Stage on the first floor of the main building of Isetan Shinjuku
  • VERSUS TOKYO THE STAGE held at The Stage on the first floor of the main building of Isetan Shinjuku
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