■ Creating new traditions while maintaining a craftsmanlike approach to sake brewing

At Fukumitsuya, the first rice of the year is steamed in September, a process known as koshikidate. From around October to March, new sake is brewed, and in April, the final rice steaming process, called koshikidaoshi, is completed. In July, all tools used in sake brewing are washed, a process known as doyo-arai. This includes not only small equipment but also tanks and hoses, and even today, nearly a month is spent on maintenance and servicing.

Sake brewing involves many steps. Among these, koji making is crucial, as the saying goes: "First, koji (koji), second, moto (mold), third, zukuri (making)." While other processes may be mechanized, many sake breweries still make koji by hand. At Fukumitsuya, ginjo koji is made using traditional methods, with brewers working around the clock for two days.
A peek into the brewing tanks inside the brewery reveals bubbles on the surface. This is because the rice koji converts the starch in the steamed rice into sugar, and the yeast ferments the sugar into alcohol. This process, called "multiple parallel fermentation," is said to be a unique and complex brewing method, even on a global scale. The bubbles are monitored while the brewer ferments the sake for 20 days to a month.
The resulting mash is then pressed and separated into unprocessed sake and sake lees, known as "joso." I sampled some freshly pressed unprocessed sake, and was surprised by its freshness and high alcohol content. "It's freshly pressed, so it has a high alcohol content (laughs). Unless we ship it as freshly pressed, we filter it, pasteurize it, and store it until autumn. We blend it according to the flavor design, add water, and pasteurize it again before bottling," explains Kazutoshi Masaji, general manager of the Production Division. Even under the same conditions, flavors can vary due to the bounty of nature. Therefore, blending ensures each product achieves a consistent flavor before shipping.

While adhering to the artisanal spirit of sake brewing, Fukumitsuya has accomplished many industry-first initiatives. "Because it's an old industry, expanding the scope of sake brewing would also result in an industry first," says Fukumitsu Matsutaro, the 13th head of Fukumitsuya. In order to protect the reputation of this long-established store, the company continues to propose and promote new value.

Finally, when asked about their favorite in-house brand, the owner replied with a laugh, "I often drink Kuro-Obi. We have four varieties - Yuyuyu, Dodo, Hyo-Obi, and San - so that they can be paired with food. But I want people to drink the one they instinctively want to drink. Kuro-Obi is a sake that's drunk with the right brain," he said.

Return to Part 1.