A dynamic wardrobe spanning cultures, generations, and styles. For the KENZO Fall/Winter 2023 women's and men's shows, Artistic Director Nigo explored both the similarities and differences between his own worldview and the legacy of Kenzo Takada. The collection simultaneously explored his long-standing fascination with the interplay between British, American, and Japanese street culture. Building on his archival backbone, Nigo's influences refined his overarching vision for the House.
At Salle Pleyel, the 1966 Quartet performed The Beatles on string instruments, reflecting the genre-bending eclecticism that began in the Swinging Sixties. A large part of his extensive vintage clothing archive is dedicated to the rocker and mod wardrobes of the time, a fundamental era for Nigo, born in 1970. This spirit evolves into a study of British country wear, expressed in his collaboration with Hunter, which reflects the legacy of Vivienne Westwood, a constant influence on Nigo's career. The elements that shape these pieces are anchored by Kenzo Takada's "joie de vivre" of the 1980s and the dialogue between traditional Japanese construction and authentic American workwear that underpins Nigo's architectural framework at KENZO.
Silhouette
The silhouette of the mod suit, adapted for youth in the 1960s, features a collarless tunic jacket, tapered trousers, and miniskirt. These range from the freeform suiting inspired by the work of 1980s Kenzo Takada and b-boy culture to traditional Japanese construction. Here, Nigo blends Western context with the language of Japanese martial arts uniforms, evoking a dialogue with workwear silhouettes. The samurai-inspired kendo uniform, which Nigo encountered in a required class as a student, is reinterpreted in Japanese denim, with its Y-shaped jacket closure and voluminous box-pleated hakama.
The outdoor-focused archetypes showcased in this collaboration with Hunter evoke traditional country wardrobes, American workwear, and the native British kilt silhouette. A tiered and ruffled slip dress pays homage to 1980s Kenzo Takada style.
Themes and Motifs
For this collection, Nigo reworks a number of archive KENZO prints through a blend of Eastern and Western lenses. Dazzle stripes, inspired by 1980s broken stripes, feature punk undertones reflected in checks, tartan, micro florals, flower stripes, and baton stripes.
As a homage to the land of roses, the archive KENZO Rose print appears alongside Kimono Camo, featuring vases, fruit, and leaves. Nigo's signature bokeh flower collections are reinterpreted with KENZO target graphics and a flower target print, paying homage to The Who iconography.
Also featured are abstract teddy flower riffs on oriental ikat motifs and bokeh effects. A large tiger badge, evoking a tiger's jungle habitat, serves as the emblem. Varsity graphics, travel badges, and animal graphics are complemented by goldfish motifs, a symbol of good fortune in Japan.
Materials and Techniques
Sashiko, a Japanese quilting technique, is also known as rice grain fabric. This fabric, also used in kendo uniforms, is deeply ingrained in the KENZO archives. Nigo utilized this technology to develop new textures, including nylon, denim, wool-based knitwear, and jersey. Additionally, wool jacquards and fil coupés from England, Scotland, and Italy appear alongside numerous velvets, ranging from fluidly refined to subversive devoré and heritage corduroy. A patchwork shirred suede piece, inspired by an archival 1970s leather jacket, is established in American military style. Denim recreates the washes of KENZO jeans from the 1980s and 1990s. Some pieces feature prints on the reverse, revealing the effect when rolled up at the hem. Knitwear features Irish Donegal tweed folded into a sporty cable sweater, while KENZO Fair Isle pieces feature multicolored Lurex threads in 3D knitting.
Bags & Shoes
Inspired by 1980s KENZO, the sporran bag, derived from Scottish dress, has been reinterpreted for this collection. Tassels are inserted into soft cotton and linen hobo bags, similar to the Rue Vivienne satchel. Reversible drawstring bags are also featured, paying homage to traditional kimono pouches in various shapes. And a large kit bag, adapted from one used for kendo practice, is reimagined in the context of 1980s sports bags.
The footwear offerings in this collection are characterised by the KENZO Clog, made from wooden wedges and decorated with flowers. The KENZO Western is an ankle boot with roots in authentic cowboy boots, evoking American archetypes reflected equally in Tyrolean boots and steel-toe work boots.
Sneakers
The new skate sneakers are inspired by the style found in skateboarding culture of the late 1990s. The sneakers, with their lowered height and wider width, feature a slightly padded, voluminous gum sole, revisited from Nigo's memories of that time. The collection also includes pieces rooted in the construction of authentic running shoes. Crafted from high-tech materials and performance-wear soles, the runners embody the concept of authenticity that inspires Nigo's design philosophy.
Accessories
Hats embody the eclectic influences found in the collection. The deerstalker, reinterpreted as a hybrid cap, also pays homage to the British, while shapkas, bob hats, and oversized, folded-over berets play on archetypes. A knit cap with mohawk fringe evokes punk silhouettes. Belts with retro 3D logo buckles mimic mod graphics, large square nameplate buckles evoke the heyday of hip-hop, and rope-like metal necklaces and oversized necklaces emblazoned with the letter K make an appearance.
Production by
Back of the House
Show music by
1966 Quartet
Content production by
Kitten
Styling by
Marq Rise
Casting by
Samuel Ellis Scheinman
for DM CASTING
Make up by
Lucy Bridge
and the Make Up For Ever team
Hair by
Anthony Turner using Dyson
Nails by
Ama Quashie
At Salle Pleyel, the 1966 Quartet performed The Beatles on string instruments, reflecting the genre-bending eclecticism that began in the Swinging Sixties. A large part of his extensive vintage clothing archive is dedicated to the rocker and mod wardrobes of the time, a fundamental era for Nigo, born in 1970. This spirit evolves into a study of British country wear, expressed in his collaboration with Hunter, which reflects the legacy of Vivienne Westwood, a constant influence on Nigo's career. The elements that shape these pieces are anchored by Kenzo Takada's "joie de vivre" of the 1980s and the dialogue between traditional Japanese construction and authentic American workwear that underpins Nigo's architectural framework at KENZO.
Silhouette
The silhouette of the mod suit, adapted for youth in the 1960s, features a collarless tunic jacket, tapered trousers, and miniskirt. These range from the freeform suiting inspired by the work of 1980s Kenzo Takada and b-boy culture to traditional Japanese construction. Here, Nigo blends Western context with the language of Japanese martial arts uniforms, evoking a dialogue with workwear silhouettes. The samurai-inspired kendo uniform, which Nigo encountered in a required class as a student, is reinterpreted in Japanese denim, with its Y-shaped jacket closure and voluminous box-pleated hakama.
The outdoor-focused archetypes showcased in this collaboration with Hunter evoke traditional country wardrobes, American workwear, and the native British kilt silhouette. A tiered and ruffled slip dress pays homage to 1980s Kenzo Takada style.
Themes and Motifs
For this collection, Nigo reworks a number of archive KENZO prints through a blend of Eastern and Western lenses. Dazzle stripes, inspired by 1980s broken stripes, feature punk undertones reflected in checks, tartan, micro florals, flower stripes, and baton stripes.
As a homage to the land of roses, the archive KENZO Rose print appears alongside Kimono Camo, featuring vases, fruit, and leaves. Nigo's signature bokeh flower collections are reinterpreted with KENZO target graphics and a flower target print, paying homage to The Who iconography.
Also featured are abstract teddy flower riffs on oriental ikat motifs and bokeh effects. A large tiger badge, evoking a tiger's jungle habitat, serves as the emblem. Varsity graphics, travel badges, and animal graphics are complemented by goldfish motifs, a symbol of good fortune in Japan.
Materials and Techniques
Sashiko, a Japanese quilting technique, is also known as rice grain fabric. This fabric, also used in kendo uniforms, is deeply ingrained in the KENZO archives. Nigo utilized this technology to develop new textures, including nylon, denim, wool-based knitwear, and jersey. Additionally, wool jacquards and fil coupés from England, Scotland, and Italy appear alongside numerous velvets, ranging from fluidly refined to subversive devoré and heritage corduroy. A patchwork shirred suede piece, inspired by an archival 1970s leather jacket, is established in American military style. Denim recreates the washes of KENZO jeans from the 1980s and 1990s. Some pieces feature prints on the reverse, revealing the effect when rolled up at the hem. Knitwear features Irish Donegal tweed folded into a sporty cable sweater, while KENZO Fair Isle pieces feature multicolored Lurex threads in 3D knitting.
Bags & Shoes
Inspired by 1980s KENZO, the sporran bag, derived from Scottish dress, has been reinterpreted for this collection. Tassels are inserted into soft cotton and linen hobo bags, similar to the Rue Vivienne satchel. Reversible drawstring bags are also featured, paying homage to traditional kimono pouches in various shapes. And a large kit bag, adapted from one used for kendo practice, is reimagined in the context of 1980s sports bags.
The footwear offerings in this collection are characterised by the KENZO Clog, made from wooden wedges and decorated with flowers. The KENZO Western is an ankle boot with roots in authentic cowboy boots, evoking American archetypes reflected equally in Tyrolean boots and steel-toe work boots.
Sneakers
The new skate sneakers are inspired by the style found in skateboarding culture of the late 1990s. The sneakers, with their lowered height and wider width, feature a slightly padded, voluminous gum sole, revisited from Nigo's memories of that time. The collection also includes pieces rooted in the construction of authentic running shoes. Crafted from high-tech materials and performance-wear soles, the runners embody the concept of authenticity that inspires Nigo's design philosophy.
Accessories
Hats embody the eclectic influences found in the collection. The deerstalker, reinterpreted as a hybrid cap, also pays homage to the British, while shapkas, bob hats, and oversized, folded-over berets play on archetypes. A knit cap with mohawk fringe evokes punk silhouettes. Belts with retro 3D logo buckles mimic mod graphics, large square nameplate buckles evoke the heyday of hip-hop, and rope-like metal necklaces and oversized necklaces emblazoned with the letter K make an appearance.
Production by
Back of the House
Show music by
1966 Quartet
Content production by
Kitten
Styling by
Marq Rise
Casting by
Samuel Ellis Scheinman
for DM CASTING
Make up by
Lucy Bridge
and the Make Up For Ever team
Hair by
Anthony Turner using Dyson
Nails by
Ama Quashie
