The female designer behind Hermès' "intellectual games" -- Véronique Nichanian [INTERVIEW]

Dec 4, 2014

In mid-November, Hermès held a party called "IMPRIMES MANIFESTES" to showcase its men's 15 Spring/Summer collection. It was an evening where attendees could enjoy the latest collection of men's items, from clothing to accessories, for the first time. To coincide with the event, Véronique Nichanian, artistic director of the men's department, visited Japan. A Japan lover, Véronique visits Japan every year. This time, she apparently visited the streets of Japan to do research. We managed to find time for an interview during her visit. She became Hermès' men's designer in 1988. She was granted "creative freedom" by then-president Jean-Louis Dumas, and with that freedom, she has shaped the Hermès men's collection for the past 26 years.

"I have no intention of making clothes that will be consumed in one season," states Véronique. What does fashion creation mean to her?

■An epic saga spanning 26 years

The Hermès SS15 men's collection is a stark contrast to the dark, heavy 14-15 AW collection, depicting a colorful, graphic, and relaxed image of men.

"My collections build on the flow of the previous one. Like writing a novel, I want each collection to be connected like a chapter, forming a larger story. For SS15, I wanted to cut away from the dark world of the previous season and create a new one."

Graphical elements have been incorporated into her previous collections, but this one has taken a major step forward. Patterns like "Armenian Garden" and "Glitch," borrowed from the Maison's scarves, "Fragments," an original design for this collection, and the ikat (ikat) technique, in which the warp threads are dyed before the weft are woven, are scattered across cotton and silk shirts, blousons, and pants. The rich colors, along with a clean, yet subtle glimpse of skin, add a delicate sensuality. "I wanted to present various expressions of transparency," says Véronique, whose collection includes a jacket crafted from grosgrain ribbon, a blouson made of cotton layered over cotton muslin, and a T-shirt woven with lambskin nubuck cord. Each garment showcases the Maison's craftsmanship. Finally, sandals or white slip-on sneakers are worn on foot. Paired with casual shorts or a suit, the pieces create a free-spirited, nonchalant style. Véronique effortlessly creates the Hermès masculine image through color and material. "I want Hermès to be worn by intellectuals seeking innovation, regardless of age, background, or skin color. Looks aren't important; free-spirited men are cool. I express my collections in a way that speaks to the soul. Hermès wearers don't wear it to show off logos or status. They wear it because they understand the innovation expressed in the silhouettes, materials, and details, and because it resonates with their own individuality. Some may even discover a personality they didn't even know existed." Wearing Hermès is like an act of self-affirmation, an "intellectual game" played with clothing. Perhaps this attitude is why he has led the Hermès men's line for 26 years. Looking at past collections, the silhouettes have remained largely unchanged, and the designs are unconventional. However, each season, new materials and details are incorporated through the craftsmanship of his artisans. Each meticulously crafted collection is as timeless and fresh as a Bach fugue. The time that flows there seems to be different from the so-called "fashion" that changes every six months.

■Clothes that transcend dimensions

Recently, she received a compliment from a philosopher friend. "'You have the means to slowly advance time'... That's what he said. What I want to do is not erase time, but create time that lasts. Purchasing Hermès is not the act of buying something to consume. It's the act of spending a long time with quality, innovation, and craftsmanship."

Her collection transcends time. And of course, it transcends "generations." Her customer base is diverse, with some customers in their 20s picking up the brand.

"What's really interesting is that the younger generation, who are looking for something different, are attracted to Hermès. Today's young people are interested in items from the digital world and are drawn to innovative things. Young Japanese men in particular are looking for niche items and are very curious. That's why I enjoy coming to Japan," Véronique says with a smile. Along with observing people, she has also been paying close attention to society.

"I'm interested in overall changes and how people's spirituality evolves. I look at it from the perspective of an urban planner or architect, and I'm interested in what kind of cities people live in and what kind of structures they have. I think that clothing, like architecture and urban planning, can be a source of inspiration for many people."

Véronique creates clothes that straddle the dimensions of the physical and the spiritual. Her lovely eyes seem to be fixed on the future of clothing. Like a jewel, Hermès men's clothing will never fade and will continue to give a sparkle of innovation to men all over the world.
Mitsuhiro Ebihara
  • Hermès Men's Artistic Director Véronique Nichanian
  • The first look from the Hermès 15SS men's collection. A light beige suit with white sneakers. The shirt has a "Glitch" print.
  • "Armenian Garden" print shirt jacket with cotton voile layered, "Fragments" print pants
  • The blouson is made of cotton layered over cotton muslin, allowing the skin to peek out. It gives a clean impression while still exposing the skin.
  • A graphic colorblock shirt and Ikat floral print pants
  • Models of various races appeared
  • The T-shirt is made of lambskin and woven with nubuck cord for a delicate look.
  • This sheer jacket, made with grosgrain ribbon, is a masterpiece of craftsmanship.
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