Numero Ventuno (N°21), designed by Alessandro dell'Acqua, opened its world's first flagship store in Tokyo's Omotesando district. Roberto Ortello, CEO of 2112 s.r.l., the Italian company that manages the brand, also visited Japan for the opening reception. "Even in Europe, I'm often asked why we chose Japan to open our first flagship store, but for Numero Ventuno, it's a way of expressing our gratitude to Japan, which boasts the highest sales figures in the world. Following Omotesando, we plan to open a second flagship store in Seoul at the end of February next year, a third in Milan, and a fourth in Osaka," Ortello said. We spoke to Ortello about his future strategy. --What are the key points of your future global strategy? We want to increase the number of stores we currently have around 600 worldwide. We also want to increase the number of flagship stores while monitoring the trends in department store-in-shops in each country.

--Currently, Japan accounts for 35% of global sales. What do you think is the reason for its particular popularity in Japan?

I think it's because the designs are luxurious yet the prices are contemporary, which matches the Japanese lifestyle. Another factor may be that Dell'Acqua's designs are similar to the sensibilities of Japanese women, who, for example, love lace. Japanese women aren't afraid to incorporate women's clothing made from men's materials into their outfits, so we're on the same page.

--Which countries do you want to expand into in the future?

Currently, globally, Japan accounts for 35% of sales, Italy 15%, Europe other than Italy 25%, and the rest are China and Korea. Going forward, Japan remains our target market. To achieve this, we believe it's necessary to increase sales of men's items along with the opening of flagship stores and department store-in-shops. Next is our home market, Europe. Third is the United States.

--What are the key points for expanding men's items in Japan?

The biggest highlight, of course, is the Isetan Shinjuku store. I saw the sales floor there this morning. I have high hopes for Isetan. Another one is the Hankyu Men's Building.

--In addition to flagship stores in Omotesando and Osaka, over the next three years you plan to open seven to eight department store-in-shops and another flagship store in Tokyo, and strengthen your men's offerings. This means that in a few years, Japan will account for a significantly higher proportion of your business.

Rather than increasing the proportion in Japan, you want to maintain your current 35% ratio while expanding your global sales.

--As you strengthen your presence in Europe, what about Paris?

We've found a good partner and a showroom in France. Starting next year, we'll be holding large-scale exhibitions in Paris and promoting our brand from Paris. However, while we would like to open a flagship store, we haven't yet found a location in Paris that we're happy with, so we don't have any concrete plans yet.

--If you have a large-scale exhibition in Paris, are you also considering a show or presentation during the Paris Collection?

The exhibition will be centered in Milan and Paris. However, Milan will remain the company's headquarters. This does not mean that the collection will be moved from Milan to Paris. Even if it is held in Paris, I think it will be more of a trunk show at an exhibition, rather than a collection. Dell'Acqua also handles Rochas, so holding a collection in Paris would avoid causing confusion or conflict.

--What about America?

Dell'Acqua is very popular in the US, so I think it has room to grow. We have changed our sales and PR company in the US, so we are confident that sales will expand from next year onwards. Until now, we have only been selling in select shops, but from next year we plan to start selling in department stores.

--You also plan to open a flagship store in Seoul next year. What about China?

Men's collections are doing very well in China. They are already being sold in major shops in mainland China and Hong Kong. However, we are not yet considering opening a flagship store. We are watching the situation in China. Without finding a partner like Tanaka Gruppo in Japan, it is out of the question to open 100 stores or a flagship store in China. Instead, I think it would be more realistic to open flagship stores and in-store shops in department stores in Japan, and to strengthen our men's line-up.

--Finally, I heard many people express their disappointment that Dell'Acqua was unable to attend the opening reception.

It's okay. He couldn't come this time due to preparations for his next collection and vacation, but he is definitely planning to come in December. He will be staying for a week and will hold another opening reception, so I think we'll be able to hear more details from him.