"Couture should lead new directions in fashion. Sometimes a work is not immediately understood or accepted. From now on, we need a strong, unified image from the collections to the advertising. Only absolute charisma can make that possible."
by John Galliano
*From "The Great Couture: Another Story, Part 6: Christian Dior: Interview and Text by Murakami Arako" in the September 2000 issue of SPUR (Shueisha)
In July 1996, Dior announced that Jean-Franco Ferré would be retiring from the house. John Galliano, who had just two seasons at the helm of Givenchy, was chosen as his successor. Galliano's new history for Dior began with the Spring/Summer 1997 collection, presented in January of the following year. The opening statement was made by Murakami Shinko in a 2000 interview with Galliano for this series. Prior to this comment, Galliano himself recalled, "For the first three years, I made clothes to sell, focusing on my customers at the time. Now, I'm just starting to pivot toward the couture of the future." He also revealed the truth behind his decision to take over the Dior house: "During dinner with the Arnaults, I asked them if I could take over Dior, since Ferré had left." Regarding the Spring/Summer 2000 collection, which sparked controversy, including its portrayal of "luxury homelessness," Galliano said, "I don't want to do old couture. Being modern is very important. We have to move forward." This statement is emblematic of Galliano's subsequent collections.