Currently available at major Isetan and Mitsukoshi stores, this collaboration features designers recreating the historic Ise dyeing stencil patterns and creating original fashion and lifestyle items. This project, garnering attention for its classic yet modern aesthetic, features designers recreating the designs of traditional Ise dyeing stencils and creating original fashion and lifestyle items. One of the participating designers is Kiyoko Takase of Five Fox, the founding designer of Comme des Garcons des Modes and current head of the Artisan brand. How did this leading contemporary designer bring traditional Japanese beauty to life in the modern era? Could you tell us how you became involved in this project? It all began when Isetan approached me. Of the approximately 3,000 stencils in their collection, I had the opportunity to view around 1,000, primarily from the Edo period. I was familiar with Ise stencils, but not with in-depth knowledge. I've made placemats and coasters using "Artisan" washi paper coated with persimmon tannin, but when I saw actual Ise Katagami, I was astonished by its intricacy. The carved lines are less than a millimeter in size. They're even reinforced with raw silk to prevent the lines from breaking. The process, sandwiched between multiple layers of washi paper, is mind-bogglingly meticulous.

--For this project, Takase created a dress and stretch pants. Were the patterns selected from Isetan's collection?

Because Ise Katagami patterns are created by layering multiple stencils, it's difficult to imagine what kind of product will result from them just by looking at the stencils. For reference, I used a print sample called "Ise Kata Ezuri," of which there are said to be only a few copies in Japan. The National Diet Library owns the second volume, so I made multiple trips to see it. The three patterns I used this time were from this second volume. Ise Katagami spread from Ise (present-day Mie Prefecture) throughout the country, and it is said that there are a huge number of patterns.

--I heard that the order from Isetan was for a "design appropriate for New Year's." What were the criteria for selecting these patterns?

Typical Ise Katagami is centered around Edo Komon, but the pattern I chose this time was for the auspicious occasion of New Year's, so I chose something more floral. All three are different types. The first is a single color of ink with shading like a sumi-e painting, and features a peony and chrysanthemum design. The second is a white-painted pattern with a white cherry blossom motif. The black painting makes the white petals stand out. These two patterns were used on a silk dress. The third pattern is a geometric pattern similar to that used in Edo Komon. Although simple, it was also created by combining several types of stencils. This one is for the textile of stretch pants. All of the designs were selected based on the criterion of "designs that can be incorporated into modern fashion."

--How did you create the patterns from the printed samples? It's a bit mysterious.

I was particular about how I drew the designs. If modern technology couldn't produce something close to the quality of the original,
there would be no point in reproducing them. First, I copied the patterns freehand from the samples.
I feel that the unique character of Ise Katagami lies in the edges cut with a carving knife, and I focused on the sharpness of the edges and the beauty of the shading, which differs from lines drawn with a brush.

--I've heard that even among stencil dyeing methods, Ise Katagami is one of the most difficult.

Naturally, printing techniques designed for mass production cannot be used. For example, the subtle shading of the patterns I created this time. I didn't do the work myself, but I heard that timing the color fixation was extremely difficult. Creating the gradation of ink required meticulous manual work. I carefully chose the right timing to fix the color while communicating with the fabric. This requires a very high level of dyeing skill. The finished fabric probably varied slightly depending on the dyer, even with the old Ise Katagami. It's amazing that Japan once possessed such advanced pattern and dyeing techniques. The dresses and pants you've produced are available in not only black but also khaki. Green is this year's trendy color. Even with the same pattern, the impression changes considerably depending on the color, doesn't it? The ink color evokes the atmosphere of the Taisho era when the pattern originated, but the khaki color takes on a somewhat modern and casual feel. Perhaps one of Ise Katagami's defining features is how the impression changes depending on the color used. Some of the patterns could even be considered modern textile designs. It's amazing that such pattern-like designs were created in an era when figurative expression was the norm. They still look dated today. The fact that such creativity was not possessed by exceptional artists, but by ordinary artisans who produced fabrics for everyday necessities, is a testament to the high level of Japanese aesthetic sense.

--What did you gain from this project, Takase?

I was deeply impressed by the beauty of the Japanese aesthetic sense of the time, as seen in the world of Japanese patterns that have endured since the Edo period. This project allowed me to stand at the entrance to the world of Ise Katagami. Going forward, I would like to challenge myself with new creations, such as expressing these patterns in jacquard. In that sense, Ise Katagami has given me a new challenge.

Five Fox's Kiyoko Takase teamed up with contemporary artisans to elevate Ise Katagami patterns into modern fashion. Her motivation for this project was her respect for the Ise Katagami artisans who survived the turbulent times that spanned from the Edo period through the Meiji, Taisho, and early Showa periods. The aesthetic sense held by the Japanese of old stimulates the creativity of designers living today.


[Event Information]
Japanese Katagami. New Year's Festival "Ise Katagami"
Dates: Until Thursday, January 17, 2013
Venue: Isetan Shinjuku Main Building, 4th floor, Authentic Gallery Precious Mix