The shirts and pants that opened the Spring/Summer 2014 show featured a striking, large, blurred checkered pattern. The pattern combined board-style weaving and textile printing. "I feel like young people have the impression that dyeing is old-fashioned," Takahashi says. However, Takahashi finds this old-fashionedness very cool. "27 is young, isn't it? It's two sides of the same coin, and while it's fresh, it's also shallow." While he seems well aware of this, how does this relate to his actual craftsmanship? "I thought that clashing tradition and youth would create a good balance, so I chose a heavy dyeing technique and a pop pattern," he reveals. The young Takahashi's approach to the weightiness of the Issey Miyake brand led to his design method of "clashing extremes." And his "affection" for dyeing continues. "There's a tendency to think, 'If you want to make something younger because dyeing has an old-fashioned feel, just remove the dye,'" he says. "That's not actually the case. By slightly modifying something old, it becomes relevant today."
He gave us a detailed explanation of the dyeing technique that was featured in the opening. For the average person, the invisible aspects of the technique are difficult to understand. When dyeing, the fabric is rolled up into bolts, and the board clamping technique involves folding the fabric multiple times and clamping it between boards. The number of folds is considered. The choice of fabric—whether it's twisted to create a grain or smooth—also affects how the dye bleeds. After dyeing, the fabric is washed and dried. Next, at a hand-printing factory, the white part of the black grid is dyed. Because the work is divided into different tasks, the fabric is then taken to a steamer to set the color. As you can see, there are many steps involved, even with just a brief explanation. Dyeing has its merits, and passing on this technique is an important role for the next generation. Takahashi believes he wants young people to learn more about traditional Japanese techniques. "Young people only look at color and shape, and don't really know the difference between dyeing and printing. But that's okay. If that's the trigger for them to come into our store, talk to our staff, and be impressed, then we can broaden their horizons." He seems to feel a sense of mission. Listening to him talk, it becomes clear that Takahashi's curiosity extends beyond fashion, encompassing architecture, design, and art. And his experience living abroad has further deepened his insight. Even as a student, he already shared a common foundation with the corporate culture established by Issey Miyake. "After joining the company, I realized how important it is to show interest in things other than fashion," he says with a deep sense of purpose. There's no time to be immersed solely in the work at hand. You have to keep your antenna up in all directions. ■ Just starting out
A young man I knew from his student days has now taken to the world stage. Honestly, I'm happy. I was excited to watch his debut show, and when he came out to greet us at the end, I was dazzled. Of course, as a Japanese, I'm ready to support him, but that also makes me want to offer some harsh criticism. This is because I expect him to be one of the talents that will lead the Japanese design world. One media outlet described Takahashi Yusuke as "leading Issey Miyake Men," but he's only just getting started. The simplistic assumption that a designer leads a brand doesn't apply. I had a frank discussion about his current situation and the fact that he's still in charge.
Design is not something that can be done alone. He is supported by technical staff, shop staff, in-store display staff, and factory workers. At the same time, a designer bears great responsibility to these people. Still, his determination to make a name for himself and lead the entire team is quite impressive.
He must be facing the daily challenges of creating a collection that meets Issey Miyake's discerning eye. As he himself said, "We're just getting started," and there's still much to come.
Back to 1/4.
