In June 2014, the Tomioka Silk Mill in Tomioka City, Gunma Prefecture, was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Tomioka Silk Mill was Japan's first mechanized silk-reeling factory, built during the Meiji era with the aim of improving the quality and mass-producing raw silk, a key export item. It was an industrial facility built by the government to promote industrial development. While the beautiful brick building nestled in a scenic natural setting leaves an impression, compared to other World Heritage sites like temples and castles, one wonders why the Tomioka Silk Mill was selected. So, I decided to embark on a tour of the Tomioka Silk Mill World Heritage Site.

Not only textiles, but also cosmetics, food, and even silk udon and silk soba noodles are available.

Take the Nagano Shinkansen from Tokyo to Takasaki Station, then transfer to the Joshu Electric Railway and get off at Joshu-Tomioka Station. The Tomioka Silk Mill is about a 15-minute walk from the station. In front of the silk mill, restaurants, cafes, souvenir shops, and other stores line the street. Signs advertising silk soba noodles and silk soft-serve ice cream are also readily apparent. According to our guide, Naozumi Hasegawa, Tomioka City's Silk Brand Manager, "Recently, not only have silk textiles become more common, but foods and cosmetics incorporating silk protein have also become more common. Tomioka even has silk soba and silk udon restaurants." Despite being a weekday, the mill was bustling with visitors. On busy days, the number of visitors is more than three times higher than before the mill was designated a World Heritage Site.

The town was well-suited for a silk mill, and it's said to resemble the designer's hometown!

Why was the silk mill built in Tomioka in the first place? When the Meiji government decided to build a factory, they first hired French engineer Paul Brunat to oversee the construction. Brunat investigated several potential locations based on the following criteria: "A thriving silkworm farming industry, easy access to raw cocoons; ample land for the mill and access to the water needed for silk reeling; support from local residents for foreign-led construction; and nearby coal for fuel." Tomioka met all of these criteria and was selected. "The view from the mill reminded me of Bourg-de-Péage, Brunat's hometown, and it's said that the deciding factor was also the scenery. I actually visited there, and the mountains and river flow are very similar," says Hasegawa. The natural scenery unique to Tomioka, including the still-unchanged Mount Inagami and the curving Kabura River, may have also contributed to attracting the mill.

A Silk Mill Combining French Wisdom and Japanese Craftsmanship

Construction planning began in 1870, and two years later, the East Cocoon Warehouse, the West Cocoon Warehouse (exterior only), and the Silk Reeling House, which are now toured, were completed. The bricks and roofing tiles used for the building were fired in a nearby town, which shows just how quickly construction progressed. Bricks, roofing tiles, wood, plaster used for joints, and foundation stones were all sourced from nearby towns. The silk mill was built with these made-in-Gunma materials, French wisdom, and Japanese craftsmanship.

Continued in Part 2