■ Sankou cocoons have thin threads, so they are reeled in slowly
To ensure that Sankou cocoons produce high-quality raw silk, they also pay close attention to the silk-reeling process. The Usui Silk Agricultural Cooperative in Annaka, Gunma Prefecture, is responsible for producing the raw silk. It is currently one of only two mechanized silk-reeling mills in Japan, and has long been renowned for its technical capabilities, receiving endless requests from famous designers and various workshops both in Japan and abroad.
Cooperative president Ikuya Takamura says, "Normal cocoon threads are about 3 denier thick, but Sankou cocoons are much thinner, at around 2.3 denier. Thin threads are lustrous, easy to dye, and have good color development. But thinness means they break more easily than normal threads. That's why we set the reeling speed to less than 70% of the normal speed and reel them in slowly."
■ Continuing to Produce Highly Difficult Silks, Including Sankou
Of course, the faster the silk is wound, the faster the raw silk can be produced. However, quality trumps production efficiency. "By slowing down the rotation speed, we can eliminate oversights regarding the fineness of the silk, dirt, and knots. Because we spend so much time and effort making the silk, it's only natural that there will be a big difference in the finished product," says Takamura.
In addition to ingenuity with the machinery, the factory is filled with experienced workers with 20 to 30 years of silkmaking experience. That's why we can trust them with the production of highly difficult silks, such as Sankou.
Takamura smiles and says, "The staff at the factory are like family. The silk industry itself has fallen to 10% of its peak, but we will continue as long as there is demand. And we want to continue to take on the challenge of producing highly difficult domestic raw silk, starting with Sankou."
■The charm of pure domestic silk: its elegant luster, supple texture, and beautiful color.
Starting with 10 years of selective breeding of silkworms, the silkworms are carefully raised by specialized breeding companies and silkworm farmers until they turn into cocoons. Then, with the help of specially designed machines and skilled workers at their side, the silk is spun into silk at Sankou, a process that takes time and effort. Kimonos woven in Gosen, Tango, using this thread are characterized by their refined and elegant luster, supple texture, and beautiful dyeing. These kimonos, imbued with the passion of those involved in their production, have garnered the attention of many kimono enthusiasts.
To ensure that Sankou continues to inspire both the wearer and the maker, and to pass on Japan's silk culture to the next generation, trial and error in thread production will continue, with the aim of revitalizing the domestic silk market. Today and tomorrow.

The "Purely Domestic Treasure Silk Exhibition" (October 15th - October 21st) being held at Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store will feature a wide selection of exquisite items made from purely domestic silk, including kimonos, obi belts, neckties, shawls, and umbrellas. Come see the charm of purely domestic silk, a treasure of Japan.

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