[Editor's Blog] "Order" and "Select"

Dec 23, 2012

One of the most important criteria in the fashion industry is "line-up." Which brands will line up alongside which brands? What will line up alongside which brands? Who will line up alongside which brands? These are constantly being considered under the name of "branding." Fashion magazine editors, department store and specialty store buyers, shopping center tenant leasing staff, stylists, advertising agency salespeople, material manufacturers, and textile converters all struggle with this issue. Since the late '80s, when overseas luxury brands established Japan offices and began to strictly manage their image under approval from their home countries, this easy-to-understand concept of "branding," along with the term "global," has promoted the homogenization of trends and markets. In the creative field, the past 20 years have seen the restructuring of parts. This began in music with hip-hop turntable mixes, and the techniques and concepts of remixing and sampling have continued to be passed down through design, video, and clothing. Since 2010, the combination of high technology and the internet has ushered in a new era of industrial revolution, as Chris Anderson describes in his book "Makers." Mass media was perhaps the industry lagging behind in this trend. Due to complex copyright issues, techniques like cut-ups, mashups, and sampling could not easily be applied to existing businesses. Sharing and retweeting on social media platforms like Facebook and Twitter led the way in information, while the role of editing was substituted by aggregation sites like 2ch and Twitter's "Togetter." The "ordering" so important in the fashion industry is irrelevant in the online world. No one can prevent photos of couture houses from appearing next to fast fashion brands, or information about luxury bags from appearing next to ramen. While "selection" is possible, the editorial perspective on which brands and products to select is now becoming user-driven, thanks to new social media platforms like Summary, TAB, and Pinterest.

Hedi Slimane is perhaps the man with a keen eye for how information should be disseminated online. Since Hedi took over, Saint Laurent has been sharing information in a revolutionary way. There are still few fashion houses or companies that fairly publish and grant permission for the use of news and images, such as those currently published in Fashion Headlines, to online news media. His ability to convey to the market a perspective that selects information rather than focusing on "order" demonstrates his absolute confidence in his own creations, and this new public relationship has helped us to rediscover the appeal of this rare charisma.

The volume and speed of information is equal for everyone, as long as they are connected to the Internet. And yet, users know better than anyone that the true joy of fashion lies in "selection" rather than "order."
野田達哉
  • [Editor's Blog] "Order" and "Select"
  • "MAKERS: The 21st Century Industrial Revolution Begins" by Chris Anderson (NHK Publishing)
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