Masanobu Sugatsuke x Toshiko Nakajima of GINZA x Mutsuko Ota of IMA Talk - The Future of Photography - 2/2

Nov 2, 2013

Afterwards, facilitator Sugatsuke introduced the history of fashion photography. Richard Avedon, known for his simple, clear, and dynamic photographs, often featuring white backgrounds, strongly influenced Leslie Kee. Irving Penn, whose elegant style is said to have "made fashion photography an art form," was also featured. Helmut Newton, whose fetishistic style brought sex into fashion photography, was also featured. Bruce Weber, whose sensual gay style saw him shoot campaigns for Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren in the 1980s and more recently works for Abercrombie & Fitch, was also featured. Steven Meisel, who considers himself a "fashion machine" and asserts that "I have no artistic talent," has continued to change his style with ease, shooting the cover of Italian Vogue for over 20 years. Nick Knight, known for his "ultimate artificiality," creates fantastical worlds by compositing numerous photographs. In contrast, Juergen Teller takes snapshots with a compact camera and has been shooting campaign photos for Marc Jacobs for over a decade. Terry Richardson, who captures his subjects with a sexually playful distance, has worked on campaign photos for Supreme and Valentino. We also looked at fashion photographers like Mert & Marcus, who employ more than 10 in-house retouchers and lighting technicians and create perfectionist photos that thoroughly study past photos and then calculate them over and over again. The current situation is one in which the "lucrative jobs" are monopolized by the big names, leaving few opportunities for young photographers. What should Japanese photographers do when simply following the photos of the stars is not enough to break through this barrier? In response to this topic, Sugatsuke said, "Photographers active on the front lines have a high learning ability and study past photographs extensively. However, when taking a photograph, they create new expressions by taking a photograph as if they had forgotten all of that knowledge. Photographers with a strong artistic sense tend to rely solely on their own methods, but if they are completely ignorant, they won't be able to get a grip, so it's important to study." Ota, who is responsible for discovering new artists both in Japan and abroad and is planning the "TOKYO 2020" exhibition in Paris featuring nine emerging Japanese photographers, commented, "It's better not to think within the framework of Japan alone. I'm encouraged by the efforts of young photographers who are exchanging information and looking to overseas markets, such as exhibiting at overseas art fairs and creating zines. If you want to survive as a photographer, you need to go beyond existing frameworks. I look forward to seeing never-before-seen photographs emerge." Nakajima concluded by saying, "Just because they're an artist doesn't mean they have to impose their own worldview on others, but rather I want someone with an editor's perspective. I'm also scared of running out of ideas and not knowing how many stories I can provide, so someone who can come up with stories with me is a great asset. I think that people who can not only come up with ideas but also have the ability to make them a reality will be valued in the future. We also want people who understand the current mood. As long as there is a sense of the times, I think new photographers will be born."
編集部
  • From left: GINZA Editor-in-Chief Toshiko Nakajima and IMA Editorial Director Mutsuko Ota
  • Masanobu Sugatsuke
  • GINZA Editor-in-Chief Toshiko Nakajima
  • "IMA" Editorial Director Mutsuko Ota
Back to Top