Although fashion is generally referred to as such, it has economic, social, scientific, and cultural backgrounds that influence the creation of new collections. It can be said that fashion evolves in tandem with social phenomena. Designers are required to have the ability to sense what is happening in the world and where people are thinking. Designers follow the direction their antennae point, create new pieces, and elevate them. Repeating this process shapes the fashion that the times demand.
Four keywords reflecting social trends emerged in this season's collection: "digital," "organic," "eco-friendly," and "women's empowerment." We considered where fashion is headed in relation to social trends.
◇Couture Meets Digital
■CHANEL
Couture houses have the role of preserving France's traditional crafts as a culture. In fact, Chanel owns workshops that produce feathers, hats, buttons, and shoes, and releases new pieces as part of its Métiers d'Art collection, preserving the skills of the artisans at these workshops. This can be seen as Chanel's contribution to society and culture. Thus, the couture house not only preserves tradition, but also constantly nurtures artisans for a new era, fully aware that the development of new materials and innovation in high-tech technology are essential for its future survival.
The Grand Palais, where the collection was held, featured a "Data Center Chanel," as if one were inside a computer. The opening of the collection featured two AI robot-like figures clad in basic Chanel suits. Following this, models clad in Chanel suits and caps exuded a contemporary street style. Technically printed dresses evoking digital codes, bags with flashing LED bulbs, and perforated white shoes created a floating sensation, evoking a virtual world. This marked the arrival of the age of couture meets digital.
Have fun being eco-friendly!
■ STELLA McCARTNEY
Since launching her own brand, Stella McCartney has avoided using real leather or real fur. This is accepted as a given by her fans. With each collection, the quality of the materials has risen to the point where they are indistinguishable. Luxury fashion and environmental issues are seen as contradictory, and few designers share Stella's views. Limiting materials is only possible if the designer has a clear vision. Stella continues to present collections that are environmentally and humanely friendly, with a "no-brainer" attitude. The models began dancing at the end of the show, likely reflecting Stella's belief that enjoying fashion leads to problem-solving, rather than loudly proclaiming that something is sustainable, animal-free, or organic. The relaxed mood was voluminous, and the body-fitting clothing made use of her signature athleticism. Many people will no doubt have nodded in agreement at the messages "NO LEATHER NO FUR," "THANKS GIRLS," and "ALL IS LOVE" inscribed on the clothing.
Organic as a mood
■LOEWE
When I visited the LOEWE exhibition, I heard that Jonathan Anderson (J.W.ANDERSON) made frequent use of the word "organic" during the briefing. Although the word doesn't appear in Loewe's collection announcements, for Jonathan Anderson, "organic" was the word that best expressed the season's mood and best suited the designs, colors, and materials. It didn't appear that he specifically presented any organic cotton or organically produced clothing.
The collection exuded an organic mood, with natural materials, raw-edged hems for a handmade feel, and relaxed silhouettes. Moving away from the image of the city-dwelling woman of last season, this time he depicted a woman living a lifestyle in contact with nature. It was as if he was trying to bring back a sense of slowness to a fashion trend that has become too fast-paced due to an overemphasis on efficiency. It's quite significant that this proposal comes from a young designer at the center of the fashion world.
The era of women's empowerment is here, too
■Dior
Jeanne Lanvin, who became a fashion designer in the 1910s, Designers like Lanvin, Madeleine Vionnet, and Coco Chanel were pioneers of women's advancement in society. After World War II, the era of male designers began, with Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent making a name for themselves in haute couture.
In the 1990s, the era of real clothes, female designers like Miuccia Prada, Stella McCartney, and Phoebe Philo once again gained prominence. However, this was in the world of ready-to-wear.
As if the post-war period was still continuing, the established couture houses remained stuck in the old-fashioned way, with male designers dominating the scene and no role for women. However, the fashion world was abuzz with the news that Maria Grazia Chiuri would be taking over as artistic director at Dior starting with Spring/Summer 2017. The house, which celebrates its 70th anniversary next year, welcomed its first female designer and seventh since Monsieur. The house of Dior has a DNA that celebrates women. Male designers have dreamed and used their inherited DNA to portray the woman of a new era. Maria Grazia is able to portray the Dior woman as a realistic, modern, and graceful woman from a female perspective. A new wind has begun to blow at the leading couture house in fashion. The T-shirt read, "WE SHOULD ALL BE FEMINISTS." A Dior by women, for women, had been born.
Four keywords reflecting social trends emerged in this season's collection: "digital," "organic," "eco-friendly," and "women's empowerment." We considered where fashion is headed in relation to social trends.
◇Couture Meets Digital
■CHANEL
Couture houses have the role of preserving France's traditional crafts as a culture. In fact, Chanel owns workshops that produce feathers, hats, buttons, and shoes, and releases new pieces as part of its Métiers d'Art collection, preserving the skills of the artisans at these workshops. This can be seen as Chanel's contribution to society and culture. Thus, the couture house not only preserves tradition, but also constantly nurtures artisans for a new era, fully aware that the development of new materials and innovation in high-tech technology are essential for its future survival.
The Grand Palais, where the collection was held, featured a "Data Center Chanel," as if one were inside a computer. The opening of the collection featured two AI robot-like figures clad in basic Chanel suits. Following this, models clad in Chanel suits and caps exuded a contemporary street style. Technically printed dresses evoking digital codes, bags with flashing LED bulbs, and perforated white shoes created a floating sensation, evoking a virtual world. This marked the arrival of the age of couture meets digital.
Have fun being eco-friendly!
■ STELLA McCARTNEY
Since launching her own brand, Stella McCartney has avoided using real leather or real fur. This is accepted as a given by her fans. With each collection, the quality of the materials has risen to the point where they are indistinguishable. Luxury fashion and environmental issues are seen as contradictory, and few designers share Stella's views. Limiting materials is only possible if the designer has a clear vision. Stella continues to present collections that are environmentally and humanely friendly, with a "no-brainer" attitude. The models began dancing at the end of the show, likely reflecting Stella's belief that enjoying fashion leads to problem-solving, rather than loudly proclaiming that something is sustainable, animal-free, or organic. The relaxed mood was voluminous, and the body-fitting clothing made use of her signature athleticism. Many people will no doubt have nodded in agreement at the messages "NO LEATHER NO FUR," "THANKS GIRLS," and "ALL IS LOVE" inscribed on the clothing.
Organic as a mood
■LOEWE
When I visited the LOEWE exhibition, I heard that Jonathan Anderson (J.W.ANDERSON) made frequent use of the word "organic" during the briefing. Although the word doesn't appear in Loewe's collection announcements, for Jonathan Anderson, "organic" was the word that best expressed the season's mood and best suited the designs, colors, and materials. It didn't appear that he specifically presented any organic cotton or organically produced clothing.
The collection exuded an organic mood, with natural materials, raw-edged hems for a handmade feel, and relaxed silhouettes. Moving away from the image of the city-dwelling woman of last season, this time he depicted a woman living a lifestyle in contact with nature. It was as if he was trying to bring back a sense of slowness to a fashion trend that has become too fast-paced due to an overemphasis on efficiency. It's quite significant that this proposal comes from a young designer at the center of the fashion world.
The era of women's empowerment is here, too
■Dior
Jeanne Lanvin, who became a fashion designer in the 1910s, Designers like Lanvin, Madeleine Vionnet, and Coco Chanel were pioneers of women's advancement in society. After World War II, the era of male designers began, with Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent making a name for themselves in haute couture.
In the 1990s, the era of real clothes, female designers like Miuccia Prada, Stella McCartney, and Phoebe Philo once again gained prominence. However, this was in the world of ready-to-wear.
As if the post-war period was still continuing, the established couture houses remained stuck in the old-fashioned way, with male designers dominating the scene and no role for women. However, the fashion world was abuzz with the news that Maria Grazia Chiuri would be taking over as artistic director at Dior starting with Spring/Summer 2017. The house, which celebrates its 70th anniversary next year, welcomed its first female designer and seventh since Monsieur. The house of Dior has a DNA that celebrates women. Male designers have dreamed and used their inherited DNA to portray the woman of a new era. Maria Grazia is able to portray the Dior woman as a realistic, modern, and graceful woman from a female perspective. A new wind has begun to blow at the leading couture house in fashion. The T-shirt read, "WE SHOULD ALL BE FEMINISTS." A Dior by women, for women, had been born.
![Words that capture the passion of the times. A compilation of interviews worth reading carefully [Fashion World Edition]](https://wrqc9vvfhu8e.global.ssl.fastly.net/api/image/crop/380x380/images/migration/2017/01/ba4d65ebe4f6e67a0039a75f6c42c665.jpg)
