A bird's-eye view of the Paris Collection: past, present, and future [2016 Spring/Summer Paris Collection: Yuri Yokoi]

Mar 30, 2016
Designers entrusted with luxury brands are expected to maintain tradition while also pioneering new trends. What was the answer brand designers came up with for the Spring/Summer 2016 collection?

Science & Technology

The internet has brought about changes to the world greater than the 19th century's Industrial Revolution, giving birth to new values everywhere, and it's no surprise that the fashion world is also being hit by a wave of paradoxical shift. The 20th century, a time of striving to perfect artistry, has given way to the 21st century, known as the Age of Science, and people are seeking to find creativity in science and technology.

Louis Vuitton's Nicolas Ghesquière created a fictional space for his collection venue, using technologically developed materials to create futuristic fashion using couture techniques. Digital native Jonathan Anderson has effortlessly evolved the venerable leather goods brand LOEWE without using leather, using his own expertise. Issey Miyake, pursuing the fusion of art and technology, continues to release evolved versions of the Please Pleats collection, even as designers change. Designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae exudes the air of a scientist ensconced in a lab, working day and night on research. He never stops moving, from 3D steam stretch to baked stretch.

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Now that the shape of the 21st century is said to be slowly coming into view, fashion appears to be undergoing a major evolution, both invisibly and profoundly.


Arts & Crafts

In the early Renaissance, there was no such thing as an artist, and even artists who left their mark on future generations worked as craftsmen. In Europe, art and craftsmanship are on the same level. For couture houses, passing on craftsmanship is one of their most important priorities. Since traditions are kept alive by the hands and senses of others, the spirit of patronage, in which artisans are patronized and financially supported by commissioning work, lives on.

Valentino has elevated African tribal crafts such as African textile printing and wood bead embroidery to the realm of haute couture, showcasing his unique, orthodox aesthetic. Meanwhile, John Galliano, who took over as designer at Maison Margiela, used meticulous couture techniques while creating collections with avant-garde expression, further enriching the approach to artisanal couture. At Lanvin, a former couture house, the skills of artisans are still passed down to this day. Alber Elbaz presented a collection titled "Manifesto" in honor of artisans.

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The evolution of technology is driven by human hands. The pursuit of beauty also requires human hands and sensibility, and women continue to seek what they perceive as purely beautiful.

Go to "Breath of Fashion."
Return to "Another Perspective."
Yuri Yokoi
  • Science & Technology
  • Louis Vuitton
  • Loewe
  • Issey Miyake
  • Arts & Crafts
  • Valentino
  • Maison Margiela
  • Lanvin
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