Maison Margiela held its Spring/Summer 2024 Co-Ed Collection on October 2nd at 7:30 PM (local time).

Courtesy of Maison Margiela



Inheritance is an act of transformation. When a possession is passed from one generation to another, its genes are modified and evolved. For its Spring/Summer 2024 “Co-Ed” collection, Maison Margiela explores the search for individual truths reflected in the intergenerational adaptation of inherited wardrobes. Creative Director John Galliano evokes the “memories” of one era through the edgy eyes of the next, sparking a chemistry of eras and attitudes in a flashback story imagined within the ongoing chronicles of the House’s protagonists, the Count and Hen.

Courtesy of Maison Margiela
In the lobby of Maison Margiela headquarters, a projection of a transatlantic ship towering over the rooftops of a 20th-century British port city provides a preview of the show. The voyage to America unfolds as the adolescent encounter between Count and Hen's parents—one the son of impoverished aristocrats, the other the daughter of a pretense-filled industrial family—plays out the harsh climate and characters on the voyage, leading to a collection inspired by the cargo of travel trunks filled with clothing that would ultimately end up in the hands of their future descendants.

Courtesy of Maison Margiela
Suggesting a generational impulse for customization that reflects modern truths, dresses are given an exfoliated look. Here, the outer fabric of a bustier is peeled away to reveal its inner structure, then layered over the skirt and laminated for a relief effect. This echoes the new technique of "presage," in which the drape and creases of a dress or shirt are laminated, leaving the fabric looking as if it had been pressed flat inside a suitcase. In the spirit of adaptation, shimmering ribbon fragments adorn dresses. This motif is also used on clunky evening silhouettes, accidentally customized with tape and "work in progress" stitching.

Courtesy of Maison Margiela
In a study of tailoring heritage, a blazer imbued with the "Memory of" sports cloth draped coolly around the neck evokes the nonchalant body language seen in archive images of Mauve Garçons (bad boys). Playing with cut, it echoes the unconscious gestures we naturally imprint on the clothes we wear: a shrugged jacket, covered pockets, and fluttering hems. The Maison's "Rorschach cutting," evoking the parade of familiar characters' parade contours, evolves into "Rorschach dots" on skirts in printed houndstooth and laminated organza, and on velour coats.

Courtesy of Maison Margiela
Outerwear and suiting fuse classic grammatical tropes of the masculine and feminine wardrobe, culminating in a coat supported by a sculptural Basque. Dancing culottes are repurposed from shredded mid-century dresses, their form language echoed in the sculpted beetle-back silhouette of a denim car coat and a coat with a Marine-style collar. Tabi brogues and Tabi spectator shoes are interpreted in various ways, while deck shoes complement the story's premise. Shopping bags, bowling bags and bass bags are adapted from Rorschach dots, and hats mimic mid-century shapes through simple construction.

Courtesy of Maison Margiela
Courtesy of Maison Margiela
Courtesy of Maison Margiela
Courtesy of Maison Margiela
Courtesy of Maison Margiela


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