This time, we visited Sakurai Hocha Kenkyusho, a Japanese tea specialty store located inside Spiral in Omotesando, Tokyo.



The art of drinking Japanese tea is a world that seems familiar, but is actually quite unknown. The refined tea culture I experienced here not only allowed me to enjoy the aroma and flavor, but also provided a rich, enriching experience that affected all of my physical senses.



I've known about this place for a few years, but I've never been able to step through the glass doors. That's because, as you can see, there's a refined sense of tension. While coffee shops and cafes are often thought of as having a relaxed atmosphere, this one really makes you stand up straight.

"Sencha" with Japanese sweets starts from 1,850 yen
In addition to tea, sweets, tea sake, and appetizers, there are also tea courses (from 4,900 yen), tea and sake courses (5,930 yen), and meal courses (from 4,200 yen).
Feeling a little guilty, I honestly explained that I was a beginner at Japanese tea and received a thorough lecture. Since I decided to start with "sencha" or "gyokuro," I chose two from the six types of sencha the waiter brought out for me. While they tend to be loosely lumped together as "sencha," each has its own unique character, with the shape and aroma of the tea leaves of each of the six types being completely different.

This time, I selected steamed Tama Ryokucha (variety: Nagasaki's "Asa-tsuyu," far right in the photo) and regular steamed Sencha (variety: Mie's "Yabukita," third from the left in the photo above). "Asa-tsuyu" is a mellow tea. I was attracted to the word "mellow." The other, "Yabukita," is characterized by its umami, sweetness, and astringency, and is apparently a rare variety that is rarely found on the market. The linear tea leaves are very delicate and slender. It was my first time seeing tea leaves like these.

It reminds me of the anecdote by Sen no Rikyu, "The Morning Glory."
My pen is running frantically, trying to record the various words I'm hearing for the first time, but I am constantly struck by the aroma, the presence of the people, and the atmosphere. The Sakurai Hocha Research Institute presents a modern take on the wabi-sabi aesthetic that I learned about long ago at my desk. It's not pretentious, nor is it overly modern. It's a shop that conveys the grace and lightness of Japanese tea culture. As I think about this while waiting for the tea to be brewed, my tense feelings gradually begin to ease.



The teapot and tea utensils are very simple. Putting the tea leaves into the teapot, adding hot water, pouring into teacups. Every action is beautiful. Apparently, you can brew three infusions in total. How does the taste and aroma change with each infusion?


The first brew is made with the lowest temperature water of the three brews. "Asa-tsuyu" 80℃, "Yabukita" 70℃. After pouring water into the teapot, let it sit for about a minute. This is what is served.

The one in the foreground with the stronger yolk is "Yabukita" tea. Both are the first brew, but the colors are completely different.
While each has a completely different taste and aroma, they both share a commonality: a firm sensation in the center of the tongue, which I believe is "umami." They have a deep, rich flavor, with a full-bodied flavor, like a dashi broth. I tried both, and it was the first time I'd ever tasted sencha like this. The second and third brews will follow, but the first brew will likely offer a sencha unlike any other you'll encounter in your daily life.

For the second brew, the tea leaves have already opened, so the golden rule is to brew it quickly with hot water to avoid excessive bitterness. The water temperature for each brew is 10°C higher than for the first brew, and the brew is steeped for about 30 seconds. The tea becomes slightly cloudy, and the initial umami flavor is toned down, creating a more approachable flavor. The refreshing bitterness and high temperature create a distinctly different feeling, like a different drink from the previous ones. For the third brew, the brew is steeped at an even higher temperature. The water from the kiln is used without being allowed to cool. The tannins and astringency of the wine go well with the sweet garnish.

The accompanying sweet was Sakurai Kanseido's Chestnut Yokan. This was Tezuka's choice.
On this day, there were three other sweets to choose from: HIGASHIYA's Jet Black and Natsume Butter.
Suzuki chose HIGASHIYA's "Natsume Butter." It was his first time trying it, but it was delicious. He liked it so much that he immediately searched the web for it after one bite.

When he looked inside the teapot after the first brew, he saw a beautiful green color.

In addition to sweets, black beans and pickles were also served as side dishes. Not only were the dishes delicious, but the coordination between the dishes and the presentation was also excellent.




As I write this article, I'm reminded once again of the sense of tension I felt the moment I opened the doors to Sakurai Hocha Research Institute. If you go in expecting a typical cafe, or a Japanese tea version of the cafes we've reported on in our Weekend Cafe Club, it's certainly not exactly reasonable. However, when you suddenly find yourself wanting to think about something more than superficial, something essential, something elegant, I believe this experience will be extremely valuable, which is why I wrote this article. You'll surely be captivated by the exquisite "beauty of wabi-sabi," and your heart will be filled with emotion.

In addition, while there are many famous coffee shops across a wide variety of genres when you stroll around the area, there aren't many famous Japanese tea shops. So, even though it's a beverage we enjoy every day, I don't think there have been many opportunities to thoroughly compare its flavor and taste. Just like finding your favorite coffee or alcohol, finding your favorite Japanese tea will surely enrich your days. That's what I believe.

You might be able to get in just by dropping by, but if you absolutely have to visit at a certain time, it's best to make a reservation.
Of all the coffee clubs we've had, this one was particularly captivating and had a "special" feel. I hope as many people as possible will visit Sakurai Hocha Kenkyusho.

And that was it for the Weekend Cafe Club.

Photography: NATSUME TEZUKA