A major reason industry professionals come to London is to discover new talent! The entire London fashion industry is dedicated to supporting young designers, and the graduation collections from prestigious schools such as Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art attract a lot of attention every year. The challenging and avant-garde style is unique to London, but these are merely "artworks," and in many cases, they struggle to be incorporated into the fashion business as products, making it difficult for brands to continue.
In [Spring/Summer 2020 London Women's Fashion Overview: Part 1], we looked at successful examples of designers who have also grown commercially, but in [Part 2] we will focus on young designers who have the same potential!
Molly Goddard is regarded as one of London's brightest new talents. Her extravagant dresses, a curious mix of tulle and taffeta, have been worn by celebrities as personal wear and on tour, drawing attention since her time at Central Saint Martins. She dropped out of school in 2014 to launch her own brand, which has continued to present at London Fashion Week. Designer Molly Goddard herself has become iconic for her signature style of pairing tulle dresses with sneakers. Now in its fifth year, the brand is in a transitional period, and to elevate its position to the next level, it's not just the tulle dresses themselves, but also the casual pieces and accessories, such as bags, that are paired with them. The Spring/Summer 2020 collection featured ruffled tops, mid-length skirts, knitwear, and, for the first time, denim pieces. Several original bags were also produced, though production is still pending. The show evoked a sultry romanticism, with rough eyebrows, cat eyes, and dark lips, but it remains to be seen whether buyers and customers will accept them. When I looked at the items individually, I didn't feel that any of the items other than the dress had a strong individuality, so I felt that there was still room for improvement.
Molly Complete Looks from the Goddard Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
Another example of success in the same romantic vein as Molly Goddard is Simone Rocha. Having made her London Fashion Week debut upon graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2010, she has steadily developed her brand both creatively and commercially. This season, the show was held at Alexandra Palace, a 19th-century theater, showcasing a collection inspired by traditional Irish festivals, where designer Simone Rocha is from. The prints and fabrics, inspired by home decor such as ceramic designs, tablecloths, wallpaper, and curtains, created a warm, nostalgic atmosphere. New ideas included tailored pieces incorporating sheer tulle and dresses with balloon silhouettes gathered around the knee. What particularly caught my eye were the shoes. Crystal heeled shoes are a Simone Rocha signature, but this season they were further enhanced with a sweet and spicy mix of pearls and studs, making them an easy look to try. The sight of Anna Wintour, who was watching the show, running backstage immediately after the finale to congratulate Rocha was memorable. Even Wintour was impressed by the emotional, dynamic, and super cute collection.
All looks from the Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
There are two young designers I came across this season who really caught my eye. First, there's Irish designer Richard Malone. After graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2014, he made his debut at Fashion East, a joint show for young designers supported by Topshop. His appeal lies in his combination of curved silhouettes and prints, as well as his unique color palette. The complex coats and dresses are seamlessly finished for comfort, and the company is particular about quality, even going so far as to send fabrics to Indonesia for production. The evening dresses are machine washable, and their practicality is another point that shows the brand's great potential.
All Looks from Richard Malone's Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
The other designer is Matty Bovan, who was selected by Fashion East and made his debut in 2017. He previously won the LVMH Prize for Student Design and worked as an assistant designer at Louis Vuitton, but left the company after less than a year. His collections showcase a unique fantasy world, featuring exaggerated silhouettes using knitwear, subversive designs, and exquisite colors that border on the eerie. He transcends gender stereotypes and is a slasher who, beyond the confines of a designer, dares to transform into an illustrator, makeup artist, and stylist. I'm curious to see how he translates his work into products, but perhaps he's not interested in the fashion business. The formula that "successful as a brand = increased sales" is no longer valid, and Thrasher like him seems to want to focus solely on creation, especially when it comes to his own brand. What is success, what is fashion? Concepts are changing, and perhaps he is a designer born out of the modern era, where diverse values exist, such as diversity and inclusivity.
Every look from the Matty Bovan Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
In [Spring/Summer 2020 London Women's Fashion Overview: Part 1], we looked at successful examples of designers who have also grown commercially, but in [Part 2] we will focus on young designers who have the same potential!
Molly Goddard is regarded as one of London's brightest new talents. Her extravagant dresses, a curious mix of tulle and taffeta, have been worn by celebrities as personal wear and on tour, drawing attention since her time at Central Saint Martins. She dropped out of school in 2014 to launch her own brand, which has continued to present at London Fashion Week. Designer Molly Goddard herself has become iconic for her signature style of pairing tulle dresses with sneakers. Now in its fifth year, the brand is in a transitional period, and to elevate its position to the next level, it's not just the tulle dresses themselves, but also the casual pieces and accessories, such as bags, that are paired with them. The Spring/Summer 2020 collection featured ruffled tops, mid-length skirts, knitwear, and, for the first time, denim pieces. Several original bags were also produced, though production is still pending. The show evoked a sultry romanticism, with rough eyebrows, cat eyes, and dark lips, but it remains to be seen whether buyers and customers will accept them. When I looked at the items individually, I didn't feel that any of the items other than the dress had a strong individuality, so I felt that there was still room for improvement.
Molly Complete Looks from the Goddard Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
Another example of success in the same romantic vein as Molly Goddard is Simone Rocha. Having made her London Fashion Week debut upon graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2010, she has steadily developed her brand both creatively and commercially. This season, the show was held at Alexandra Palace, a 19th-century theater, showcasing a collection inspired by traditional Irish festivals, where designer Simone Rocha is from. The prints and fabrics, inspired by home decor such as ceramic designs, tablecloths, wallpaper, and curtains, created a warm, nostalgic atmosphere. New ideas included tailored pieces incorporating sheer tulle and dresses with balloon silhouettes gathered around the knee. What particularly caught my eye were the shoes. Crystal heeled shoes are a Simone Rocha signature, but this season they were further enhanced with a sweet and spicy mix of pearls and studs, making them an easy look to try. The sight of Anna Wintour, who was watching the show, running backstage immediately after the finale to congratulate Rocha was memorable. Even Wintour was impressed by the emotional, dynamic, and super cute collection.
All looks from the Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
There are two young designers I came across this season who really caught my eye. First, there's Irish designer Richard Malone. After graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2014, he made his debut at Fashion East, a joint show for young designers supported by Topshop. His appeal lies in his combination of curved silhouettes and prints, as well as his unique color palette. The complex coats and dresses are seamlessly finished for comfort, and the company is particular about quality, even going so far as to send fabrics to Indonesia for production. The evening dresses are machine washable, and their practicality is another point that shows the brand's great potential.
All Looks from Richard Malone's Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
The other designer is Matty Bovan, who was selected by Fashion East and made his debut in 2017. He previously won the LVMH Prize for Student Design and worked as an assistant designer at Louis Vuitton, but left the company after less than a year. His collections showcase a unique fantasy world, featuring exaggerated silhouettes using knitwear, subversive designs, and exquisite colors that border on the eerie. He transcends gender stereotypes and is a slasher who, beyond the confines of a designer, dares to transform into an illustrator, makeup artist, and stylist. I'm curious to see how he translates his work into products, but perhaps he's not interested in the fashion business. The formula that "successful as a brand = increased sales" is no longer valid, and Thrasher like him seems to want to focus solely on creation, especially when it comes to his own brand. What is success, what is fashion? Concepts are changing, and perhaps he is a designer born out of the modern era, where diverse values exist, such as diversity and inclusivity.
Every look from the Matty Bovan Spring/Summer 2020 Collection
![[LOOK] Molly Goddard 2020 Spring/Summer Collection](https://wrqc9vvfhu8e.global.ssl.fastly.net/api/image/crop/380x380/images/upload/2019/09/a533fa17219f24b3cda8b1b38fa8bfe5.jpg)
