The "ethical" movement, which originated in the wake of issues such as overproduction, waste, labor exploitation, and environmental pollution at fast fashion brands, has become firmly established in Europe and the United States in recent years as a new value-added concept for fashion brands and consumer consciousness. Activist activism targeting high fashion brands intensified in the 1990s, and in 1991, Calvin Klein declared itself fur-free. Ralph Lauren, Vivienne Westwood, Versace, Stella McCartney, and others followed suit, opposing animal testing. Following Gucci's fur-free declaration in Spring/Summer 2018, the Kering Group announced that all of its subsidiaries, including Yves Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, and Balenciaga, would also eliminate fur by Fall 2022. In parallel with Prada's fur-free initiative from Spring/Summer 2020, the company completed the replacement of all virgin nylon products with recycled nylon in Fall 2021 as part of its carbon-neutral efforts.
The booth of ALKeMe ATeLirR, a vegan leather brand, exhibited at MIPEL, held in Milan in February 2020.
This sustainable initiative shows signs of expanding into the fashion trend, from fur-free to leather-free. When we covered MIPEL (an international trade fair for bags, shoes, and other items) held in Milan in February 2020, just before the pandemic began (in our May 2020 issue), the theme of the exhibition was "sustainable," but only a few Canadian and American brands were promoting vegan leather. Although there was momentum as a trend, the leather-free movement had not yet become very visible in society. However, in 2021, Hermès released items made from vegan leather developed from mycelium, Burberry decided to stop using exotic leather (such as crocodile and snake), and Volvo, Tesla, and Audi have all launched new leather-free luxury models, so vegan leather is starting to attract attention as a high fashion trend.
LIVE.R MEGURO Tote Bag, Made in Japan with Japanese Leather, ¥31,900 (tax included)
Founded in 2015 in Meguro, Tokyo, as a custom-made shop specializing in Japanese leather, LIVE.R MEGURO is known for its tailored leatherwear that showcases the high level of craftsmanship of Japanese tanners (leather processing manufacturers). While the brand has offered elaborate pieces such as faux leather hoodies and corduroy leather jackets, which are made from a surface that has been printed and then scraped off to create a sweatshirt-like appearance, the past few seasons have focused on items that take advantage of the lightness and softness of the material, a testament to the inherently high level of Japanese processing techniques. The brand primarily develops materials in collaboration with tanneries in Tatsuno, Hyogo Prefecture. The designer creates patterns himself and responds to customer requests. Owner, designer, and pattern maker Shoji Takenaga, who began his career in tailoring and working for a Japanese denim brand in the 1990s, commented on the impact of vegan leather, saying, "The quality of the material is still difficult to use for apparel. Japan's high-end tanneries are world-class in terms of their preparation of raw hides and their commitment to environmental issues. I don't think consumer awareness of veganism will increase to the point where it would lead to a shift away from leather in Japan, and I don't think it's right to equate Japanese and overseas tanneries with environmental issues in their production processes."
Shoji Takenaga of LIVE.R MEGURO
In Japan, culture itself has developed from an ethical perspective, and traditional crafts and folk art movements, such as "Japan Made," are being rediscovered as a new market for techniques and products made from natural materials. Until chrome tanning became commonplace in the leather industry, tannin tanning was 100% used in Europe in the 19th century. In Japan, however, oil tanning was the norm until the mid-20th century, and until recently, a method known as "white tanning," which does not use chemicals, remained. This method developed from a unique approach to protecting the ecosystem in order to protect the forests and rivers of the country's small land area. Himeji's white leather, in particular, was introduced at the Paris World's Fair in the late 19th century and was widely exported due to its durability. Each production region, from Himeji and Tatsuno in Hyogo Prefecture to Tokyo, Tochigi, Nagasaki, and Gifu, has its own distinctive artisanal techniques. Tanneries and leather artisans who handle high-quality leather, recognized internationally, still exist today, despite a lack of successors. While Western marketing techniques, such as ethical, sustainable, and vegan, are on the rise, and Japan's unique environment is pushing away the skills cultivated through unique traditions, the "Japan Made" brand represents that culture. Text by Tatsuya Noda, Founding Editor-in-Chief of Fashion Headline. This article was originally published in the July 2022 issue of Monthly Shopping Architecture (on sale June 28), with some additions and revisions, and additional photos.
The booth of ALKeMe ATeLirR, a vegan leather brand, exhibited at MIPEL, held in Milan in February 2020.This sustainable initiative shows signs of expanding into the fashion trend, from fur-free to leather-free. When we covered MIPEL (an international trade fair for bags, shoes, and other items) held in Milan in February 2020, just before the pandemic began (in our May 2020 issue), the theme of the exhibition was "sustainable," but only a few Canadian and American brands were promoting vegan leather. Although there was momentum as a trend, the leather-free movement had not yet become very visible in society. However, in 2021, Hermès released items made from vegan leather developed from mycelium, Burberry decided to stop using exotic leather (such as crocodile and snake), and Volvo, Tesla, and Audi have all launched new leather-free luxury models, so vegan leather is starting to attract attention as a high fashion trend.
Consumers Moving Towards Ethics and Leather Craftsmen Rediscovering Value
LIVE.R MEGURO Tote Bag, Made in Japan with Japanese Leather, ¥31,900 (tax included)Founded in 2015 in Meguro, Tokyo, as a custom-made shop specializing in Japanese leather, LIVE.R MEGURO is known for its tailored leatherwear that showcases the high level of craftsmanship of Japanese tanners (leather processing manufacturers). While the brand has offered elaborate pieces such as faux leather hoodies and corduroy leather jackets, which are made from a surface that has been printed and then scraped off to create a sweatshirt-like appearance, the past few seasons have focused on items that take advantage of the lightness and softness of the material, a testament to the inherently high level of Japanese processing techniques. The brand primarily develops materials in collaboration with tanneries in Tatsuno, Hyogo Prefecture. The designer creates patterns himself and responds to customer requests. Owner, designer, and pattern maker Shoji Takenaga, who began his career in tailoring and working for a Japanese denim brand in the 1990s, commented on the impact of vegan leather, saying, "The quality of the material is still difficult to use for apparel. Japan's high-end tanneries are world-class in terms of their preparation of raw hides and their commitment to environmental issues. I don't think consumer awareness of veganism will increase to the point where it would lead to a shift away from leather in Japan, and I don't think it's right to equate Japanese and overseas tanneries with environmental issues in their production processes."
Shoji Takenaga of LIVE.R MEGUROIn Japan, culture itself has developed from an ethical perspective, and traditional crafts and folk art movements, such as "Japan Made," are being rediscovered as a new market for techniques and products made from natural materials. Until chrome tanning became commonplace in the leather industry, tannin tanning was 100% used in Europe in the 19th century. In Japan, however, oil tanning was the norm until the mid-20th century, and until recently, a method known as "white tanning," which does not use chemicals, remained. This method developed from a unique approach to protecting the ecosystem in order to protect the forests and rivers of the country's small land area. Himeji's white leather, in particular, was introduced at the Paris World's Fair in the late 19th century and was widely exported due to its durability. Each production region, from Himeji and Tatsuno in Hyogo Prefecture to Tokyo, Tochigi, Nagasaki, and Gifu, has its own distinctive artisanal techniques. Tanneries and leather artisans who handle high-quality leather, recognized internationally, still exist today, despite a lack of successors. While Western marketing techniques, such as ethical, sustainable, and vegan, are on the rise, and Japan's unique environment is pushing away the skills cultivated through unique traditions, the "Japan Made" brand represents that culture. Text by Tatsuya Noda, Founding Editor-in-Chief of Fashion Headline. This article was originally published in the July 2022 issue of Monthly Shopping Architecture (on sale June 28), with some additions and revisions, and additional photos.
