Isetan Shinjuku is hosting a pop-up event called "STYLIST MADE," featuring yukata designs by 10 of Japan's top stylists, from June 19th to 25th at The Stage on the 1st floor of the main building. (After the event, the designs will be available at the Kimono section on the 7th floor of the main building.) Fashion Headline is conducting interviews with 10 stylists! We'll be introducing them in a relay format. This time, we're featuring stylist Tomoki Sukezane. The yukata features a red and black gingham check pattern inspired by the traditional fabric (Masai Shuka) worn by the Maasai people. The obi belt is made of a shiny material with a cummerbund-like finish, making it suitable for parties, yet also highly functional, as it can be machine washed. The model is fashion director Norio Osumi. What Japanese dyeing and weaving techniques did you incorporate this time? And why did you choose them?

I actually wanted to use a technique called chusen, which dyes the back almost the same as the front, but because I was also determined to make a yukata that could be washed at home, I was limited by the materials I could use. I was told that chusen dyeing is impossible with machine-washable materials, so I went with regular nassen printing.

--What is the difference between your main job of styling and designing clothing (in this case, yukata)?

Of course, "styling," which combines what's available, is completely different from designing from scratch. This time, the theme was traditional Japanese clothing like yukata, so I felt I was pursuing color, pattern, and functionality rather than "design."

Personally, I wasn't interested in designs or ways of wearing that fundamentally disrupt traditional clothing like yukata, so I don't particularly think of it as "designing a yukata."

--What difficulties did you encounter while actually making a yukata? Did you discover anything new?

I was surprised to learn that there are now yukatas that can be washed in a home washing machine, although I was simply unaware of this. Japanese clothing, including yukata, can be a hassle to have washed and hung up after wearing, and I've always thought that this is one of the reasons why Japanese people are turning away from traditional Japanese clothing, so a "washable yukata" is great. I chose washable materials again this time. I think a "washable yukata" is perfect for Japan's hot and humid summers.

--What traditional Japanese techniques would you like to incorporate into your styling and designs in the future?

I mainly style using so-called "Western" clothing, so I'm not particularly interested in incorporating traditional Japanese techniques. It's difficult to incorporate specific details of traditional Japanese techniques into my styling, but I do think it would be nice to incorporate the spirituality of Japanese culture. Minimalism, wabi-sabi... Or perhaps the charm of "Tora-san the Futen no Tora-san"?!

--Who do you think is the coolest man who suits a yukata?

Ryu Chishu.

--Which Japanese or international designer would you like to have design a yukata for you?

Alber Elbaz. I think he would suit him.

--What is your most memorable memory of going out in a yukata? Also, what are some recommended situations and spots?

I was born and raised in Kyoto City, so every summer as a child I would wear a yukata to go see the Daimonji bonfires. I remember thinking as a child that it was so charming. If you're going out in Tokyo in a yukata, wouldn't it be good to go to places like Kagurazaka where the old townscape remains?


[Profile]
Born in 1965. Started her career as a fashion editor at POPEYE. In addition to magazines, he is also active in the field of styling for commercials for artists and musicians. He currently has serials in magazines such as "UOMO" and "GQ JAPAN." His first book, "The Secret Pleasures of Tomoki Sukezane" (Magazine House), is scheduled to be published on June 27th.