If a brand keeps making the same thing season after season, it is stagnant. However, if it can incorporate new ideas each season while maintaining its basic character, that brand is stable. For example, this season's Margaret Howell collection features sheepskin coats, jumpsuits, zip-up knitwear, knit scarves in soft colors, and chunky rubber-soled shoes, creating a casual, outdoor feel. However, its British, clean-cut style remains unchanged. Margaret Howell 2015-2016 Autumn/Winter Men's Collection Moschino, another reliable brand, created a festive atmosphere with a large-scale set that flew artificial snow across the runway, showcasing colorful patchwork knitwear, animal-print faux fur suits, and parkas and dresses covered in silver and gold sequins. While the two brands' creations could be considered polar opposites, they share a common thread: consistently delivering creations that meet fan expectations. Moschino 2015-2016 Autumn/Winter Men's Collection

Liam Gallagher's brand, PRETTY GREEN Black Label, whose audience at the show was largely made up of brand fans, is also a stable choice. Slim-fit tailored suits are coordinated with floral shirts, and white or black skinny jeans are paired with the brand's essential item, the mod coat. As long as Liam Gallagher himself doesn't make any major style changes, this brand will be fine. But what about J.W. Anderson, which offered nothing particularly new apart from the large jewelry buttons on the front of the jacket and the knit scarf with long fringe running the length of its length? The jacket with a high, wide collar that looked like a sailor collar from the back and the top with a ribbed knit that resembled a corset or belly warmer, covering the chest and below, were both very J.W. Anderson, but I felt like I'd seen them before. Perhaps the brand's continued success in coming up with surprising ideas that exceed and defy expectations means that consumers' expectations are becoming too high. It takes time for creations to break new ground, and that transitional period can sometimes be perceived as stagnation. Either way, I don't want the brand to stop here. J.W. Anderson 2015-2016 Autumn/Winter Men's Collection

Alexander McQueen, whose collection sought to create variety through surface decoration rather than silhouette, tried heat-transfer-printed sashes and crystal stars on tailored pieces. Immediately after the show, my honest reaction was, "Was McQueen really this kind of brand?" The sharply cut jackets and coats were beautifully crafted to flatter the male figure, rivaling any Savile Row tailor in that respect. I'd like to give a tease of the dirt under my fingernails to young brands that feature tailoring but are noticeably sloppy in their construction. But isn't there something more to Alexander McQueen that people expect from the brand? Isn't it because he has turned established concepts upside down and created something beautiful and new? When I think about it like that, I feel a bit sad. But at the same time, I can't help but feel that this is merely the nostalgia of an old man. Alexander McQueen himself is no longer with us, so perhaps we should only evaluate his work from the perspective of Sarah Burton's McQueen, a different style from the one he created in his own time.