For its Spring/Summer 2015 collection, "132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE," created by Issey Miyake and his REALITY LAB team, presents designs inspired by the circle. While researching various shapes, the project explored incorporating the circle into its design and weaving structure, following on from the previous "triangle." Alongside the linear designs and angular silhouettes proposed since the project's launch in November 2010, the collection offers a new impression by proposing designs that emphasize feminine curves and draping. Using computer programming by Tsukuba University Associate Professor Jun Mitani, an expert in origami mathematics, the complex three-dimensional structure was created from Miyake's roots—a single piece of cloth. The complex three-dimensional structure can be folded like a kimono and then returned to a two-dimensional plane. The brand name, 132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE, embodies the meaning of transcending time and dimensions when worn. This "No. 12," representing the 12th proposal since the project's launch, begins with a circle. The octagonal 3D origami proposed in "No. 9" was unfolded into a circle with four fold lines, and then flattened to create jackets, blouses, dresses, and pants.
The circular 3D origami series, which uses an ultrasonic automatic cutting machine to cut several circles of the same size and stitch them together in a few places according to a set pattern, creates garments. By incorporating circular woven structural lines, the garments not only fold flat, but also have a light, natural, and airy design.
The material is a combination of recycled polyester, developed with Teijin Frontier, which the brand has used since its inception, and a new polyester blend with hemp. The new material uses recycled polyester for the warp and regular polyester and hemp for the weft, ensuring stable physical properties. It can be washed in a home washing machine and has the texture of natural fibers while also being quick-drying. Available in two varieties: 65% polyester/35% hemp and 87% polyester/13% hemp, it is used in a variety of items, from lightweight spring/summer pieces to outerwear. The colors are primarily natural, highlighting the texture of materials like blue and beige. Also, starting this season, the men's collection "132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE MEN" will be released each month. Until now, men's wear has only been sold at Reality Lab Issey Miyake in Aoyama, Tokyo, so designs were limited to recycled polyester coats, shirts, and pants based on 1970s patterns. This season, the collection expands the variety of items and designs, including bottoms incorporating a woven structure for the first time in men's wear, short-sleeved shirts made of polyester-linen, similar to women's wear, linen-blend pants with diagonally shifted seams to flatten the twisted structure, and short coats. Also, bags will be released as a series. Based on the structure of the 3D Origami series, which is newly released each season, the bags will change each season, just like the clothes, with some previously proposed structures being added. However, starting this season, the 12 structures proposed in "No.1" will serve as the basic standard, forming a series of bags and accessories. The company plans to expand its range of products by selling them in shops that sell not only clothing but also accessories.