The trend of "minimal design" [Summary of Men's Spring/Summer 2016 Paris Fashion Week]

Aug 17, 2015

At the Paris Men's Collection for Spring/Summer 2016, there was a decline in eccentric silhouettes that could be recognized from a distance, and many brands emphasized high quality through materials and details.

A notable example of this was Lanvin, designed by Luca Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz. In their latest collection, presented at the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, they avoided structured, exaggerated silhouettes and focused more on materials and detailed techniques than ever before, such as embroidery on fabrics and stonewashing, with the hope of attracting even those who were not interested in fashion. It seems likely that this creative approach of starting creations from the microscopic level, rather than building a collection around a theme or story, will continue for some time.

Saint Laurent, designed by Hedi Slimane, a trendsetter who skillfully captured the spirit of the times in both women's and men's collections at the Paris Collection, also kept all silhouettes subdued, instead using vibrant prints and embroidery. Held in the former marketplace, the Caro du Temple, the show presented over 70 looks, including women's. When Hedi Slimane first revived his Saint Laurent line, the simple designs seemed a bit lacking, but now they have become a part of the times and a trend. Hedi Slimane is a rare visionary.

Véronique Nichanian's Hermès collection minimizes design to highlight the finest materials and tailoring. The collection was presented in the courtyard and cloisters of the former Cordeliers Monastery, now the Paris School of Medicine. His commitment to craftsmanship, without sparing time or effort, was truly impressive, as he created prints specifically for the printed shirts and bonded laser-cut silk to chevre leather. Even a water snake blouson, with its patchwork seams invisible, looked almost printed. This is a remarkable display of technical skill. While this brand has always maintained a certain distance from trends and cannot be considered in the same breath as current trends, it may ultimately be said to be in line with the times.

Maison Kitsuné, by Gilda Loaëc and Masaya Kuroki, and Ami Alexandre Mattiussi, which presented its show in a special tent in the Tuileries Gardens, are also brands that do not express a strong design. This makes them more appealing to the general public outside the fashion industry and has led to steady growth. In May and June, both brands opened their third and fourth stores in the 11th and 24th arrondissements of Paris, respectively.

Amid the challenging slowdown in high fashion, fast fashion continues to thrive. Today's men's fashion is adapting to these trends while also exploring its next path of development. While each brand continues to design, it seems they are being forced to reimagine their concept of design.
Tomoaki Shimizu
  • The trend of "minimal design" [Summary of Men's Spring/Summer 2016 Paris Fashion Week]
  • Lanvin 16SS Men's Collection
  • Yves Saint Laurent 16SS Men's Collection
  • Hermès 16SS Men's Collection
  • AMI Alexandre Mattiussi 16SS Men's Collection
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