Following the recent string of terrorist attacks in the UK, the 2018 Spring/Summer London Men's Fashion Week kicked off under heightened security. Burberry combined its women's collection with J.W. Anderson's show in Florence, leaving the season lacking in highlights. Furthermore, perhaps due to the terrorist attacks and political issues, a gloomy mood pervaded the city. The emptiness and gloom in people's minds created a somewhat unfortunate atmosphere. However, this was also precisely why the youthful energy and message of London's youth were so clearly evident. London is a treasure trove of young designers. Home to some of the world's most prestigious art universities, such as Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art (RCA), the city excels at nurturing the talent of the young people who will lead the future. During Fashion Week, up-and-coming designers selected for the support program NEWGEN (short for New Generation) held shows, presentations, and pop-up showrooms, creating a lively atmosphere. Keep an eye on these promising young designers who are sure to take flight on the global stage.


Edward Crutchley

Edward Crutchley, a textile consultant who has previously worked with Pringle and Kanye West, and currently with Louis Vuitton, launched his own eponymous brand in 2015. His exquisite textiles, with their exquisite combinations, are truly impressive, standing out among the young designers.

This season, a wide variety of textiles, including embroidery, jacquard, and latex, are used. The textiles are sourced and processed from a variety of sources, from Europe to Asia. Furthermore, this season's architectural silhouettes showcased his high level of pattern making. The fusion of different cultures, such as African patterns, Victorian dresses, and kimonos, is a mix that is typical of a new generation that values diversity. Although the variety may seem a little overwhelming, it is clear that his shining talent is evident.



Kiko Kostadinov

Bulgarian-born, London-raised Kiko Kostadinov made a name for himself immediately after presenting a capsule collection with STUSSY while studying at Central Saint Martins. Kiko debuted her own brand at her graduation show in 2016, and her career has been marked by installations at Dover Street Market in London, New York, and Ginza. She also became the new creative director of Mackintosh's new line, Mackintosh 0001, and was named to Forbes' list of "Europe's 30 Under 30." The brand's foundation is minimalist, contemporary workwear with functional beauty. While retaining a street vibe, the unique, handcrafted artistry and meticulous cutting elevate the brand's sophisticated yet modern aesthetic. Unfazed by the expectations and momentum of others, Kiko says, "It's too early to define the brand's aesthetic." She aims to "create clothing that transcends class and that I would want to wear myself."



Wales Bonner

Wales Bonner won the LVMH Prize in 2016 and immediately garnered attention. Designer Grace Walls Bonner incorporates African influences, her roots, into luxury, showcasing her own unique style. The next few seasons will test her true worth, as she will either fade into obscurity or continue on her path as a talented designer. This season, her talent was certainly honed.

The collection is inspired by an essay by James Baldwin, an American novelist active in the 1950s and 1960s. It is more minimalist than past collections, with less decoration, and is a new attempt to derive beauty from silhouettes such as cut, fit, and length. She often describes the process of building a collection as a "search for identity." We cannot help but be excited to see where this search will lead and how it will be reflected in the collection.