London's young designers are more energized than ever, fueled by the political issues they face. The vote to leave the EU one year ago highlighted the political apathy of the younger generation. In response, they envisioned a brighter future and took action.

The general election held on June 8th saw a high turnout of 18- to 24-year-olds—77%—and it was clear that young people's desire for change had a significant impact on the results. London designers also used their collections to voice their opinions. Like the punk and rock cultures born of rebellion, music and fashion have a history of being used as a platform to express opinions and move society with powerful messages conveyed through subcultures. Fashion cannot change politics, but it can be a driving force for changing the future. These collections by emerging designers celebrating a brighter future are sure to be a ray of hope that fills the cracks.


Liam Hodges

After three seasons of joint shows with MAN, a gateway for emerging designers, this season he presented an independent show with the support of NEWGEN. As a brand that reflects modern reality, Liam Hodges has presented collections that are sometimes dark and sometimes playful. Titled this season's theme "Unveiled Tomorrows," he advocates "asserting one's own will" even in today's noisy society. "It's important to learn from the flood of noise and information and to maintain one's individuality," Liam said.

A creepy teddy bear mascot with teeth, depicted on many pieces, appeared in the finale. The "screaming teddy bear," modeled after Munch's "The Scream," symbolizes a younger generation who want to be cute but are driven to ruin by the real world's inability to do so. He added the message, "Never confuse cuddly with weakness - this teddy bear has teeth!"



Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY

Charles Jeffrey is hailed as one of London's most exciting menswear designers. Originally from Scotland, he graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2015. Last year, he created an installation at Dover Street Market in New York and hosted a LOVERBOY party, making his presence felt in New York's nightlife. His eccentric and thoroughly fun collection is reminiscent of Vivienne Westwood.

This season's collection is an antithesis to a conservative and inflexible generation, incorporating humorous social commentary. "We're so exposed to absurd situations that we can no longer distinguish between reality and reality. That's why our romantic fantasies seem more real than ever," he commented wryly. He transformed his pent-up anger and frustration into a cheerful and joyful collection, sending the message that positive energy will lead to a brighter future.



Phoebe English

Phoebe English, who started out with the brand for women, presented her collection this season in a presentation format, just like last season. For the men's line in particular, she has eliminated all unnecessary elements and is focusing on garment and processing development, as well as handwork.

This season's collection is based on workwear, which is both functional and comfortable. In the exhibition hall, models are silently making pottery. The place was filled with a quiet, relaxed, and soft atmosphere. The collection pieces affirmed the wearer's existence and gave a sense of security, as if gently embracing them. It was as if they were saying that sometimes we need time to immerse ourselves in a task, forget about reality, and rediscover ourselves.