PHOTO: DANKO STEINER
Kris Van Assche's Dior Homme presented its Winter 2018-19 collection at the Grand Palais. The collection was based around two themes: youth, as the freedom to embody ideals with reckless abandon, and maturity, as a way of looking at things acquired through solid experience. The designer argued that youth and maturity mutually enhance the codes of formal and informal that define menswear today. Models from the '80s and '90s, such as Cameron Albojan and Mark Vanderloo, also appeared, highlighting the collection's generational appeal. The selection of models, consistent with the theme of youth and maturity, also drew attention.

Kris Van Assche, whose creations have been influenced by '90s club culture, once again focused on tattoo culture, a growing movement, particularly tribal motifs, this season. These motifs were scattered throughout a variety of items, including shirts, jackets, necklaces, bags, and sneakers.

The show kicked off with a series of "Bar" jackets, featuring waistbands—a symbol of the house's haute couture. Crafted from a finely woven grain de poudre wool, these jackets reinterpret formal jackets and are beautifully crafted by the world's finest ateliers. However, rather than simply recreating the "Bar" jacket, there were also some experimental pieces, such as incorporating polo collars and adding sweatshirt-like sleeves.

The collection, which both clearly and vaguely defined the distinction between formal and casual/streetwear while also incorporating Dior codes, was fresh and thrilling. It powerfully presented the brand's future direction.