While covering dyeing and weaving in Miyakojima, Okinawa, the FASHION HEADLINE editorial team was inspired to learn more about the relationship between alcohol and fermentation after hearing about the use of awamori in the indigo dye production process. This time, during a tour of Yamanashi with fermentation designer Hiraku Ogura, we visited Niwa Satoshi, the brewer at Outsider Brewing, who produces craft beer that Hiraku highly recommends.

So, what is the delicious secret hidden in the fascinating drink "beer"? The FASHION HEADLINE editorial team, all new to fermentation, will be presenting a Q&A with Hiraku Ogura.

■First, let's start with the definition of alcohol!

Q1: What is the relationship between alcohol and fermentation?

FASHION HEADLINE Editorial Department (hereinafter, FH):How does alcohol come from rice, which is the raw material for sake, grapes, which are the raw material for wine, and barley, which is the raw material for beer? I have so many questions!

Ogura Hiraku (hereinafter, Hiraku):Let's start by clarifying the definition of alcohol!

The definition of alcohol is "a drink that contains alcohol and makes you drunk."

The alcohol contained in this alcohol is different from the industrial alcohol used in science experiments; it's delicious and fragrant, and is produced by a fermentation bacteria called yeast. This yeast breaks down the sugars in rice, fruit, and grains to produce alcohol. There are countless types of alcohol around the world, but they are all fermented foods, with the alcohol produced by yeast being the main ingredient.

FH:Right now, I'm in awe of the greatness of yeast. All the alcoholic beverages that make people happy are produced by yeast! I'm impressed.

Q2: Among the many types of alcohol, where does beer fit in?

Hiraku:The basic definition of beer is "an alcoholic beverage made primarily from malt and hops." So, when brewing beer, the sugar produced when germinated barley is heated is broken down by yeast, which then converts it into alcohol. The carbonation that makes bread rise is also produced by yeast, and is the same gas that makes bread puff up.

In addition, medicinal hops prevent the introduction of germs during fermentation and add the bitterness and richness that are characteristic of beer.

FH: Q3: Does beer contain medicinal hops? And what are the ingredients of beer, anyway?

Hiraku:This trinity of "malt, hops, and yeast" is the foundation of beer.

It's based on the "Beer Purity Law" issued by Wilhelm IV of Bavaria in 1516. (By the way, apparently many breweries adulterated their beer in the past, and those caught were subject to severe penalties such as flogging or death.)

FH:I just had a craft beer with a complex flavor that spreads throughout my mouth, so I was surprised at how simple the ingredients are.

Hiraku:Take a look at the ingredient list of beer from major Japanese manufacturers (don't go for low-malt beer). You'll notice that compared to soft drinks, there are far fewer ingredients.

Just like sake, which is based on "only rice," and wine, which is based on "only grapes," beer is also a drink that pursues purity.

FH:It's amazing how infinite flavors can be created from pure ingredients!

■Beer Variations: Advanced Edition

Hiraku:Now, let's move on to the advanced edition. Let's talk about beer variations.

All the beers sold in Japanese supermarkets taste the same, but beer actually has a diversity of flavors that rivals sake and wine. The recent "craft beer boom" reflects the passion that beer has always had: "I want to enjoy a diversity of flavors!"

FH:The desire to enjoy diversity led to "craft beer." That's exciting.

Q4: Even though it's called beer, it seems like there is a lot of diversity. What happens if you try to systematize and organize the types of beer?

Hiraku:There are various ways to classify beer, but based on the principles of fermentation, it can be broadly divided into the following two types.

■Let's systematize beer...

・Lager beer (bottom fermentation):A beer that is fermented slowly at low temperatures and has a crisp, smooth finish
・Ale beer (top fermentation):A beer that is fermented quickly at room temperature and has a rich, fragrant flavor

More than 90% of the beer consumed in Japan and Asia is lager beer. The main products of Companies A, K, and S are all lagers.

However, ale beer actually has a longer history than lager beer. Ale beer is also commonly consumed in countries where beer brewing has been popular for a long time, such as the UK and Belgium (the most famous ale that everyone knows is Guinness).

■ What's the difference between lager and ale?

The difference between lager and ale is the type of yeast used. Lager yeast prefers low temperatures below 10°C and sinks to the bottom as fermentation progresses. In contrast, ale yeast prefers room temperatures above 20°C and floats to the top as fermentation progresses. The reason lager is bottom-fermented and ale is top-fermented is because the yeast sinks or floats.

FH:I've certainly heard the terms "lager beer" and "ale beer," but the difference between them is the fermentation temperature and the resulting flavor.

Hiraku:By the way, lager beer has a longer fermentation period than ale, and it ferments and ages more slowly due to the lower temperature. As a rough guide, lager takes 1-2 months, and ale takes 1-3 weeks.

Q5: Compared to sake and wine, isn't the brewing period for beer shorter?

Hiraku:The reason the brewing period is shorter than that of sake and wine is because the aging period to settle the flavor after alcoholic fermentation is short. If it's aged for too long, the flavor will be ruined.

FH:I see, beer tastes better with a shorter aging period. Even though they're both alcoholic beverages like wine and sake, each has its own unique characteristics. Even so, I was amazed at the depth and diversity of beer this time! Mr. Niwa has made some truly challenging craft beers, including beers made with grapes and dashi.

■What is the driving force behind the craft beer boom?

Hiraku:The driving force behind the recent craft beer boom is the re-evaluation of ale beer. Lager beer is known for its smooth, refreshing taste, making it a "beer first!" drink. Meanwhile, ale offers the acidity and full-bodied flavor of wine, as well as the aroma of sake. It's not the kind of drink you'd gulp down in the scorching summer sun and say, "Phew, that's delicious!"—but it's a beer you can savor over time.

When you go to a pub in the UK or Belgium, the home of ale, you'll be surprised to see dozens of different beers on offer.

The reason for this is that, unlike lager beer, ale's flavor can change dramatically depending on the fermentation method. While lager beer has become popular worldwide because anyone can make high-quality lager beer with the right equipment, ale is a truly local drink, with its unique flavor determined by the brewer's skill and the characteristics of the land.

FH:The beer I had at Outsider Brewing was truly a truly flavorful ale, a result of the combination of the ingredients and the brewer's skill.

Hiraku:Just as handmade craft culture became popular as a reaction to mega-brand lifestyle goods and fashion, people are now looking for "individuality" and "the individuality of the brewer and the place" in beer.

FH:When you think about it that way, it feels like the craft beer movement was due. This time, during my reporting in Yamanashi, I had the chance to try Niwa's craft beer...

Q6: What are the characteristics of Niwa's craft beer in your opinion?

Hiraku:As a fermentation designer, I would say it's "sexy beer."

Since alcohol is a luxury item, it's important that it's not just thirst-quenching, but also "sensual." Niwa's beers maintain the refreshing taste we generally expect from beer, while also being packed with sexy elements such as acidity, richness, and an intoxicating aroma.

FH:I was surprised to hear that beer is sexy, but when I actually try Niwa's beer, I think I understand what he means.

Hiraku:Even if I go to the English countryside and try a hardcore ale, it's a taste that Japanese people can't quite understand. But Niwa's beer satisfies the Japanese sense of beer and also fully expresses the depth of craft beer, combining simplicity with a level of enthusiastism. That's what's great about it.

To digress a bit, the history of craft beer in Japan began during the bubble period. Laws changed, allowing even small breweries to produce beer, and many "local breweries" sprang up all over Japan. However, most were made as so-called "tourist souvenirs," and unfortunately, were expensive and not very tasty, so they were eliminated when the bubble burst. Outsider Brewing is actually one of the early originators of craft beer that survived this elimination. It's a compelling beer that has weathered the waves of the times.

FH:I see. Niwa's passion for beer and the fruits of his various challenges are packed into a glass of craft beer. What really caught my attention was the story about "cultivating wild bacteria to make beer yeast."

Q7: What exactly is so amazing about collecting wild yeast and making beer?

Hiraku:When brewing beer, whether ale or lager, it's common practice to add commercially available yeast, but Niwa makes beer using wild yeast found in his hometown of Yamanashi. This is an extremely difficult challenge. It's difficult to control the flavor, and it's unclear whether the aroma and carbonation will come out properly. However, I think the two reasons why Niwa is able to take on the challenge are as follows.

【Reasons why we can make challenging craft beer】

- Confidence in our ability to tame wild yeast
- Trusting the palates of our beer fans

I think the second point is very important. Beer made with wild yeast has an aroma and acidity unimaginable in major beers, but it is precisely because we have customers with sophisticated palates who think it's delicious that we are able to take on such challenges.

Just like fashion, unique cultures are formed in alcohol as well through the "synergy between makers and consumers."