[Japanese Fashion Magazine Chronicle: Yuri Yokoi] The relationship between the fashion world and fashion magazines -- Part 1 of 1/12

Dec 28, 2013

Fashion is a fickle thing. Yesterday, black clothing might be the top trend, but the next day, white clothing is in vogue. This phenomenon isn't caused by the whims of designers; it's the result of designers who can read the mood and propose new styles.

Editors of fashion magazines catch this information as quickly as possible and portray the image of the woman of the new era through high-quality fashion photography and writing. This in turn inspires designers. The fashion world and fashion magazines have worked hand in hand to promote the evolution of fashion. Consumers' approval of this evolution leads to the creation of the fashion of the era.

In 1867, the same year the Syndicale de la Haute Couture (now the Syndicale) was founded in Paris, the world's first fashion magazine, Harper's BAZAAR, was launched in the United States. Even back then, Paris was already the center of fashion, and American women admired and excited the latest fashions emanating from Paris. As proof of this, the first issue of Harper's BAZAAR featured the fashions of Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III, a fashionista of the time. The American edition of Vogue was launched in 1892, and together they continue to lead women as the world's leading high-end fashion magazines. Vogue is currently published in 20 countries, and Harper's BAZAAR in 18, captivating fashion magazine fans. Both magazines arrived in Japan between 1999 and 2000, just as the door to the 21st century was about to open. Their timing seemed to coincide with the maturation of domestic luxury brands. ELLE and Marie Claire appeared in Paris, the epicenter of fashion, approximately 50 years after Vogue and Harper's BAZAAR. Parisian fashion magazines feature the Parisian lifestyle and offer comprehensive recommendations for high-quality living, including fashion, interior design, and food, differing in style from American-originated magazines.
When Japan's first internationally affiliated fashion magazine, "AnneAnne/ELLE Japon," arrived, Parisian fashion was shifting from haute couture (high-end tailored clothing) to prêt-à-porter (high-end ready-to-wear). French magazines like "ELLE" and "marie claire" transformed the prêt-à-porter era into the chic style of Parisians, which suited the sensibilities of Japanese women. One theory is that the similar physiques of average French women and Japanese women create a sense of affinity. Indeed, the differences in the bone structure between Germanic and Japanese women seem to translate into differences in both fashion and lifestyle.
Even among French fashion magazines that embrace a chic lifestyle, there is "VOGUE PARIS," which offers high-end fashion. As both Karine and current editor-in-chief Emmanuel were editors at Elle, Vogue Paris exudes a sense of casual fashion amidst a sense of luxury and elegance, which is the magazine's style.

Numero, founded in 1999 by Babette Gien, former editor of Glamour, is also categorized as a lifestyle-oriented fashion magazine, typical of French magazines (it is well-known for its coverage of design, architecture, and fine art as well as fashion), but its edgy visual expression exudes a high-fashion feel and is popular with creative types.

All of the American and French fashion magazines introduced here are published in Japanese editions. I will discuss the process by which they have penetrated the Japanese market and the evolution of fashion itself.

(2/12--Fashion has come to Japan. From Dior to Kenzo.)
Yuri Yokoi
  • The cover of the first issue of Vogue, featured in the book In Vogue: An Illustrated History of the World's Most Famous Fashion Magazine (Rizzoli), which chronicles the history of Vogue.
  • This is a supplement to Harper's Bazaar, which was relaunched in Japan in September 2013. It is a collection of the magazine's best covers from 1867 to the present.
  • The first issue of French magazine "Numero" (published in March 1999)
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