[Editor's Blog] The End of Jean Paul Gaultier

Sep 28, 2014

Before my business trip to Paris, I heard some truly sad news: Jean Paul Gaultier's ready-to-wear department was closing.
It was Gaultier who first sparked my interest in fashion. I was captivated by his collections, which seamlessly combined classic and futuristic, formal and ethnic, feminine and masculine, light and dark—all sorts of elements. To me, fashion is synonymous with Gaultier, clothes are synonymous with Gaultier, and designers are synonymous with Gaultier—they're practically a single concept.
His final show, held at the Grand Rex cinema in Paris on September 27th, was a wonderfully entertaining experience, brimming with Gaultier's unwavering humor and love. I'll save the detailed review for another time, but the theme was "Miss Jean Paul Gaultier." Gaultier's beauty pageant was held, as if looking back on history. No one could resist getting excited when they saw the invitation printed in the tricolor of the French flag. The audience was ecstatic, and everyone was on their feet when Gaultier came out at the end. It was a happy ending that didn't feel like the end.

When I talk to people who have been covering Gaultier's collections since the '80s about Gaultier, they always say, "I always looked forward to what would happen at Gaultier's shows. Even though an invitation was a platinum ticket."

As a kindergartener in the '80s, I can only glimpse Gaultier's heyday from surviving documents, but his shows were truly spectacular. Apparently, when his flagship store in Paris's Galerie Vivienne opened, the entire street in front of it was rented out for a circus. It was Onward Kashiyama that supported his creativity from the very beginning. Three of the company's staff members took a liking to him. One of them was the late Akira Okuda, an executive officer and president of Via Bus Stop. He fell in love with the marine pants designed by Gaultier. How proud I am to be a fellow Japanese. From then until the mid-2000s, the brand remained number one in buyer and journalist rankings. Even taking into account the fact that the designer is a true Frenchman, there is no other brand like it. My favorite collection was the 2003 Spring/Summer men's collection, "Brutally like Michel Polnareff, Romantic like Marilyn Manson." I was captivated by the layered styles: tulle tops printed with Manson's makeup, gothic pleated skirts with rings, stockings, matador pants, and shirts. It was dark, rock, feminine, and classic. Very Gaultier. Perhaps Gaultier's true strength lies in his ability to create pieces that transcend gender barriers. Tulle tops and skirts for men are staples. He even once released camisoles and other lingerie. The pinnacle was the 1996 Fall/Winter men's collection, "Homme Couture," which featured wedding dresses. I've never seen such beautiful men's clothing. It's often said that fashion is fantasy, but Gaultier embodied fantasy.

However, despite being such a great couturier, most people in their twenties have never heard of him. Even the assistant of a certain famous stylist hadn't heard of him. It's very sad, but this is the reality of impermanence.

From now on, the company will focus on the perfume department and haute couture. I'm glad that the famous fragrance "Le Male" will remain, but his clothes are now out of reach for ordinary people.

Au revoir "Jean Paul GAULTIER".
I'm grateful for the opportunity to have seen his final ready-to-wear collection.


Mitsuhiro Ebihara
  • The final Jean Paul Gaultier 15SS collection
  • The collection was presented in cinemas
  • The invitation is modeled after a beauty pageant sash.
  • The show started like a beauty pageant
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