Thom Browne New York finally played the Japonism card with its Spring/Summer 2016 collection. The venue, decorated as a traditional Japanese room, was covered in white gravel, and models wearing white makeup, sunglasses, tabi socks, and geta sandals walked down the tatami runway.

Tailored pieces, such as classic three-piece suits paired with classic cropped pants and chester coats, were used as canvases to depict traditional Japanese patterns found on kimonos and other items. Mount Fuji, samurai, koi carp, chrysanthemums, cherry blossoms... The patterns used included pinstripes, herringbone, houndstooth, and plain-colored fabrics. The clever use of color combinations and the textures of silk, linen, wool, and cotton created a delicate look that was hard to believe was patchwork.

With a color palette centered around navy and gray, and the signature tricolor ribbons scattered throughout, the Tom world is still alive and well. The collection has a slightly nostalgic overall feel, with the humorous feel of the geisha-style models and an exquisite balance of artisanal quality, creating an outstanding collection.