On September 14th, the third day of London Fashion Week, various brands presented their Spring/Summer 2015 women's collections.
Margaret Howell and Paul Smith, who often draw inspiration from British menswear, both transformed formal items such as dinner jackets and dinner shirts into relaxed pieces with a soft atmosphere. Starting with a combination of a linen shawl collar jacket and slim pants, Margaret Howell paired it with a bra top underneath, or transformed it into a shirt dress with oversized cuffs that reached down to the back of the hand, incorporating a refined sexiness into a masculine look. Margaret Howell SS15 Women's Collection
Meanwhile, Paul Smith transformed the dinner shirt into a roll-neck, short-sleeved top with gently falling shoulders, and the dinner jacket into a long, asymmetrical, sleeveless jacket. Dresses with low waists and pleated skirts were crafted from wide stripes, while shiny satin and sheer organza created a delicate balance between masculine and feminine. Paul Smith SS15 Women's Collection
Topshop's collection line, TOPSHOP UNIQUE, and the long-established knitwear brand Pringle of Scotland showed off a retro tennis wear vibe with mini-length pleated skirts and sporty tops. While the shapes and items shared some similarities, the two brands' ideas were very different. Inspired by young girls' holidays on the British seaside, UNIQUE went for a girly look with bright red pleated skirts and abstract floral prints. The second half of the show featured a nightlife theme, retaining a sporty spirit while featuring plenty of mini dresses adorned with crystals and ruffles. Topshop Unique SS15 Women's Collection
Pringle of Scotland took inspiration from the works of two disparate artists, John Everett Millais and Picasso, to create contrast within a single garment. The shape of this tennis-inspired mini dress features a skirt adorned with embroidery reminiscent of the stitching used to sew knitwear together, reaffirming the brand's identity while also creating a striking contrast. Pringle of Scotland 15 Spring/Summer Collection
The Richard Nicoll collection, which also featured active sportswear in collaboration with British fitness wear brand Sweaty Betty, again showcased contrast within a single garment, with feminine dresses paired with leather hoodies and waist bags worn diagonally. Balance seemed to be the key theme, with dresses featuring asymmetrical shapes held up by thin strings in subtle positions, and dresses with zippers at the chest and waist that were deliberately left open to emphasize three-dimensionality. Richard Nicol SS15 Collection
Mary Katrantzou's dresses, inspired by the image of Pangaea, the ancient supercontinent formed by all of Earth's continents, and Panthalassa, a super-ocean that became one of its epochs, depict the land and sea, the birth and evolution of life, and the long period of time it took for the continents to reach their current configuration. Pieces studded with seed beads are placed on sheer silk to represent land and water, while lace resembling the giant scales of ancient creatures is woven into dresses and tops. Patterns, expressed in jacquard and embroidery, feature the organic curves of snakes and seaweed, symbols of life. Starting with basic colors like black, beige, and khaki, the collection gradually becomes more colorful, expressing the evolution of the Earth and the blossoming of life.
Mary Katrantzou 15 Spring/Summer Collection
